Thread: Check strap material Series LR?

A bit of chain with hose around it at a pinch, and probably the cheapest by far
Regards Philip A

Firstly ask whether you really need the straps - not really needed on a series type vehicle with original suspension and shockies - but I guess you already know that. I never had them on my first series 1 or my later series 3.

I cannot help with webbing other than the usual suppliers in the UK (what about seatbelt webbing as an alternative) however I have seen a number of vehicles that have used conveyor belt cut to an appropriate width.

Garry

Thanks Garry and Phillip

Am a bit reluctant with the unforgiving nature of chain and seatbelt webbing is designed to have some elasticity.

If I'm unable to get the correct stuff, a bit of insertion rubber may be the go, although my first option would be to go with folded canvas fire hose.

If I do go with the canvas hose, bonding the folds together may be a good idea.

As I have posted many times, check straps are not needed on ANY series landies IME.

However, if you really want to have them, seat belt webbing will be fine (maybe 2-3 layers though). Most of the US offroad equipment suppliers sell limit straps made from seat-belt type webbing. Seat belt webbing has minimal stretch, and if you get some from the driver's seat belt of an accident damaged car it will be "pre stretched".



When rebuilding my IIA I made some from conveyor belt matting (the non-rubberised kind), but then threw them away shortly after when I realised they weren't needed.

Yeah but I don't want articulation, that's something that silly coiler Landy's want to do! Articulation = body roll - and when you're over 3m tall already that's a high centre of gravity.

I guess my big concern is that I'll actually need longer shocks with the 35mm "suspension lift" , the check straps will reduce the chance of the shocks bottoming out.

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Yeah but I don't want articulation, that's something that silly coiler Landy's want to do! Articulation = body roll - and when you're over 3m tall already that's a high centre of gravity.

I guess my big concern is that I'll actually need longer shocks with the 35mm "suspension lift" , the check straps will reduce the chance of the shocks bottoming out.

IMO having check straps will make it more likely you WILL roll. Since they will stop the axle abruptly, making you more likely to lift a wheel, with resultant steering/braking/drive issues.

If your shocks aren't strong enough to limit travel then they must be very poor quality. At least when shocks are used to limit travel the shock rubbers allow some cushioning when they get to the end of their travel.

As I mentioned in my the other thread, on the front of my mil IIA I have OEM (Monroe mil) shocks and have removed the bump stop spacers. On full compression I can see daylight through the top of the top and bottom of the bottom shock eye. The reverse on full extension. Aside from wearing shock eye bushes faster than normal there are no adverse effects.

I doubt your FC will get to the end of the shock travel - unless you are driving offroad loaded to the GVM.

I am virtually at the end of the shock travel (bottom) with the vehicle static. Remember the SIIB is a spring over design on the rear end, and adding 2 leaves (to carry the extra load of the body) has added about 12mm and coupled with the re-set has lifted the body 135mm (body now level + 35mm, and the reason I need an extra 70mm in the straps.)

See the problem!

(I doubt that I will get to the other end of the travel either - but there are bump stops if I do.)

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

I am virtually at the end of the shock travel (bottom) with the vehicle static. Remember the SIIB is a spring over design on the rear end, and adding 2 leaves (to carry the extra load of the body) has added about 12mm and coupled with the re-set has lifted the body 135mm (body now level + 35mm, and the reason I need an extra 70mm in the straps.)

See the problem!

(I doubt that I will get to the other end of the travel either - but there are bump stops if I do.)

If you have a fresh reset I am sure you will find the springs will settle. My front shocks were similar (almost at the limit) when I first had my springs reset.

I would suck it and see (drive it as-is with no check straps). If you break a shock I will chip in $20 towards a new one (assuming they are a decent brand to start with - e.g. not rancho or pedders).