Salisbury diff question ?

**mark2** · 12th January 2011, 10:30 PM

Originally Posted by wagoo

As long as the surfaces to be welded are clean and not rusty I think it would be fine.
I'm not much of a welder really due to poor short range eyesight. but somehow I have managed to get away with stuff that I shouldn't have, such as cutting and welding a LandRover and Toyota halfshaft together to make a temporary front shaft for my portal axles about 8 years ago.I'm still waiting for it to break so I can fit the proper shaft i've had made.
Wagoo.

Cheers. The suggestion of preloading the splines is a great one. Will just have to avoid burnouts in reverse

I'll probably go with a mild preheat of around 100-150 C. Do you think there is much chance of damaging wheel bearings due to welding heat or current? I would remove the flange/shaft imediately after welding so the hub doesnt pull too much heat out too fast - should also stop too much heat getting to the bearings.

Alternatively would another method be to weld a couple of opposing tacks while the shaft/flange is in the hub /splines are preloaded and then remove and finish the full weld with the flange horizontally in the vise? This would also allow a better welding position. I am leaning towards this method.....

**stig0000** · 12th January 2011, 10:51 PM

i gota stick welder thingy, its a big one off our farm ,, would this weld be ok, il be watching this,

**wagoo** · 12th January 2011, 10:57 PM

I really don't think you'd transfer enough heat through the flange into the hub and then into the greased wheel bearings to affect their heat treatment,particularly if you remove the unit immediately after welding.
If the shaft and flange are square and concentric before you start welding you should always be able to bring them back to true by the peening method described earlier.
I forgot to add earlier that for really sloppy shaft/flange units I build up the diameter of the shaft in the stub axle(spindle) region with insulation tape to keep it as concentric as possible with the spindle. The flange is held concentric by the hub of course.
Wagoo.

Stig. I just use a home handyman type 140 amp arc welder and 2.5mm Weldall electrodes.Off my 6kva generator set it'd be lucky to put out 100amps.yours should be fine.

**djam1** · 13th January 2011, 07:33 AM

We had a welded rear flange on a Series 2 last more than 10 years

**rovercare** · 13th January 2011, 09:51 AM

Originally Posted by Mr Whippy

Crown wheel and pinion backlash will not cause a clunk. Most diffs have around 6 to 10 thou of an inch backlash. If you had enough to cause a clunk it would be that stuffed that it would be screaming its titts off.

If there is play in the diff causing a clunk it will be the spider gears or the axle splines in the spiders or both.

Dave.

I've seen excessive pinion to crown wheel backlash add clunk and not sing at all

But not the likely cause in a 110 with sals

Anyhow, to check, you will hear/feel a FAINT clunk, which is the crown wheel and pinion backlash, if you think this does not exist or can't feel it with you mittens I'd suggest you shouldn't be setting up differentials

**c.h.i.e.f** · 13th January 2011, 11:46 AM

Im leaning towards Aframe and axles at this stage... I dont plan on touching the diff until I get the lockers

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