Thread: 2 inches or 3

Welcome to the Forum Yettiemann. If you are talking about a body lift, then a 3" lift is now illegal I believe. A 2" lift is the max you can go. Add a 2 inch lift to the springs, and you should have all the clearance you need. Mind you, I am no Disoc expert, so I always stand ready to be corrected...

Cheers - Gav

if you are raising on the springs, and getting the most flex out of your new extended set up, then yes you will need to extend the brake lines. You may also need to install a double carden front propshaft. I would be making sure all your front end is in very good working order....including things as: panhard rod bushes, all radius arm bushes, swivel bearings, steering damper, tie rod ends. check your track rod and drag link for bends and replace with heavy duty items if needed. I would also check rear trailing arm bushes and A frame. If its on its oringinal A frame ball and bushes I would definitly change these out. You can get really good replacement ones from MR Automotive, they are stronger than OEM and are greasable and adjustable.

I would install oem rubber bushes at axle ends of RA and TA's...you may want to use super pro poly bushes at chassis end as they seem to hold up better to the missalingment a lift induces.... you will have to sort out your shocks and therefore probably your shock mounts at chassis end.

this should get you started

cheers,
Serg

THANKS FOR THE REPLYS
I THINK 2 INCH WILL SURVICE I SOUNDS EASIER TO ME
THANKS AGAIN

Originally Posted by YETTIEMANN

THANKS FOR THE REPLYS
I THINK 2 INCH WILL SURVICE I SOUNDS EASIER TO ME
THANKS AGAIN

no need to shout ........hahahaha

while 2 inches will be a bit more forgiving in some areas....it wont change most of what I posted. You may or may not need the DC propshaft. But if using flexy coils and good shocks with travel most will still apply. suspension bushes should be looked at regardless of what you do due to the age of your vehicle.

Originally Posted by uninformed

I would install oem rubber bushes at axle ends of RA and TA's...you may want to use super pro poly bushes at chassis end as they seem to hold up better to the missalingment a lift induces

That's actually the opposite of what I've always done. I've always installed poly ax the axle ends and a-frame and panhard rod as these are what keeps the alignment, while the chassis ends are where the movement comes from and the OEM rubber allows more compression and is much easier to replace when worn.

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

That's actually the opposite of what I've always done. I've always installed poly ax the axle ends and a-frame and panhard rod as these are what keeps the alignment, while the chassis ends are where the movement comes from and the OEM rubber allows more compression and is much easier to replace when worn.

you might want to check that

Radius arms: The axle end bushes bind well before the chassis end. The chassis end OEM rubber has a tendency to "weld" itself to the bracket. installing rubber at the axle end allows a touch more flex than poly. Using poly at the chassis end allows more twist as they are installed with a liberal amount of grease. The poly at chassis end will not limit travel.

Trailing arm. If lifted, even with cranked arms the OEM rubber bush can already be partly through its range of flex at ride height. The poly bush seems to allow more flex at this end also.

I have poly at the chassis end of A frame, I still need to replace my panhard bushes.

The reason I choose to use rubber in 2 spots was a little for flex but also for feel, ie to soften the harshness you can get from a full poly bushed vehicle.

All the Poly bushes I have used are by Fulcrum, in their "Super Pro" range. These have been found to be softer than other brands.

A 3'' suspension lift would just about negate the 3 degrees of castor angle built into the front axle, reducing self centreing and possibly inducing wheel shimmy and/or directional instability.This can be addressed by fitting swivel balls with slotted bolt holes to correct castor angle. Eccentric radius arm bushings or re bent radius arms will also restore castor angles but upset universal joint angles causing driveline vibrations.
Wagoo.

Originally Posted by wagoo

A 3'' suspension lift would just about negate the 3 degrees of castor angle built into the front axle, reducing self centreing and possibly inducing wheel shimmy and/or directional instability.This can be addressed by fitting swivel balls with slotted bolt holes to correct castor angle. Eccentric radius arm bushings or re bent radius arms will also restore castor angles but upset universal joint angles causing driveline vibrations.
Wagoo.

I was going to mention the slotted swivel balls, but after my 2.5inch lift and others that have had so called success with 2-3 not needing them, I think it just comes down to luck...IMO it would in no way be a bad thing to do....just an extra thing.

I agree that bending the front RA is not desirable and castor correction bushes tend to bind up quicker than OEM rubber so I would have thought this defeat one of the main purposes of a spring lift.

cheers,
Serg