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Thread: LT95 Clutch Issue

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    LT95 Clutch Issue

    Hi,

    Fix one issue and the next arises!

    Took the Rangie for a run yesterday (after fixing some fuelling isses). Got to the end of the road put the clutch in and it sank to the floor a lot easier than normally. Pick up and release seemed to be about and inch or two from the floor rather than the whole travel length (seemed to be anyway). Took it for a 10km round trip drive - still manage to change gears but concerned. Drove to work today (about an hour each way). Still have the issue but mostly highway driving so not much changing gears. When I get to the roundabout near work and a few ins and outs of the clutch up hill waiting for traffic, the care stalled a couple of times and I couldn't get the car out of gear. Put the clutch in and out a couple of times, managed to get out of gear, start then continue on. (Happened a couple of times).

    Any ideas as to what it could be? It'll be waaayyyy out of my depth to fix myself (let alone timewise), so will end up taking it to a mechanic but I'd like to know the issue first. Had a look at the oil level and it seemed fine.

    I sometimes wonder why I persist with it!?! It's good when it's good but bad when it's bad!

    TIA

    Stu
    Cheers,
    Stu

    1993 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9lt - languishing
    2 x 1981 3.5lt V8 2dr Range Rover
    1958 Series 1 109" - "Bob" - COVID project

    Who wants another politician as Head of State? Not me:
    http://www.monarchist.org.au/

  2. #2
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    This is usually the slave cylinder however could be slave and master. check whether any fluid around the clutch pedal.
    Regards Philip A

  3. #3
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    ''Had a look at the oil level and it seemed fine'' ? I hope you don't put oil in your master cylinder reservoirs ! I've seen it done.
    Anyway it does seem that your master cylinder is at fault here.
    Wagoo.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagoo View Post
    ''Had a look at the oil level and it seemed fine'' ? I hope you don't put oil in your master cylinder reservoirs ! I've seen it done.
    Anyway it does seem that your master cylinder is at fault here.
    Wagoo.
    Sorry, my mistake. I should have said "fluid".
    Cheers,
    Stu

    1993 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9lt - languishing
    2 x 1981 3.5lt V8 2dr Range Rover
    1958 Series 1 109" - "Bob" - COVID project

    Who wants another politician as Head of State? Not me:
    http://www.monarchist.org.au/

  5. #5
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    So if I'm replacing the Master Cylinder I may as well replace the Slave Cylinder, any ideas on how to tell whether the fittings are Imperial or Metric?

    I believe my model (10/81) was around the cut over but it's still a bitsa!
    Cheers,
    Stu

    1993 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9lt - languishing
    2 x 1981 3.5lt V8 2dr Range Rover
    1958 Series 1 109" - "Bob" - COVID project

    Who wants another politician as Head of State? Not me:
    http://www.monarchist.org.au/

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Take the pipe between M/C and S/C with you when you buy the kits and try the thread with your pipe, or the salesperson might be able to work it out for you, Regards Frank.

  7. #7
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    Thanks but I was going to get them from O/S so need another way of checking.
    Just awaiting the freight cost to check which is cheapest way to go.
    Cheers,
    Stu

    1993 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9lt - languishing
    2 x 1981 3.5lt V8 2dr Range Rover
    1958 Series 1 109" - "Bob" - COVID project

    Who wants another politician as Head of State? Not me:
    http://www.monarchist.org.au/

  8. #8
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    Either get the thread checked by someone who knows, or order a new pipe to fit the new M/C and S/C, Regards Frank.

  9. #9
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    Well I had a similar issue with my LT95, but mine is in a series 3 and every now and then I adjust the little rod that goes into the master cylinder to keep the take up on the pedal where I want it. I like it right near the top of the travel, I’m not sure if your Rangie has the same adjustment? As for the stuck in gear, when this used to happen to mine, usually while trying to force it into neutral without pushing the clutch in, the worn end of the gear stick would actually jam in the gate of the gearbox. A few times I would have to undo the 3x ½’’ bolts that hold the stick in and manually stick it in the selector shaft it should have been in, it’s not very hard at all, just inconvenient. I put a new gearbox in mine for lots of reasons, but I toyed with the idear of building up the worn gear stick with weld and grinding it back into shape, that would work fine.

  10. #10
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    I have to say this, so don't take it the wrong way.
    It was the clutch fuid you checked? Easy to think the brake does both..
    The symptoms are exactly what happens when fluid is very low. ie none there

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