Thread: The Best Oil Filter I Could Find

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

What's the dirt holding capacity of those filters?

IIRC 38g for the Donaldson and Fleetguard, the Baldwin was quite a bit less.

The Amsoil EaO filter is probably the best on the market, it uses the Donaldson media, assembled by Wix with a silicon ADBV (not really needed in a 300Tdi)

Originally Posted by Pedro

yes those filters are the same fitting and specs as the b2hpg but they are nearly twice the cost with the fleet guard at just under $40 so i could not justify it. The b2hpg is 22 in wagga and i got it down to 16 from overseas. My car has been lifted 50 mm so i think it is ok on mine.

IIRC I pay around $29 for the Donaldson from my local parts supplier.
Purolator make a filter with almost the same filtering, although it's flow is no where near as good for quite a few $ less.

At the end of the day a full flow filter does bugger all, the air filter is far more important to an engine's longevity.
Real oil filtering only takes place with a by-pass filter, and the centrifuge on the TD5 is one of the best.

You can buy the same/similar from Mann-Hummel and retrofit it to any small diesel. An old truck operator I knew used to fit the large Mann-Hummel centrifuges to his fleet of DD60 Series engines and the oil analysis was so good they removed the Donaldson ELF full flow filters (they were always spotless) and replaced them with 30 micron cleanable stainless baskets. (in case of component failure)
His fleet average oil change interval was 96,000km.

BTW, don't think you're safe with a 50mm lift, the axle will still hit the bump stops under articulation unless you have some stupidly stiff springs.

With 220lb/in springs and 117mm between the bump stop I still clouted the oil filter, and that was just driving on the road (admittedly dirt and bitumen)

Re oils, there's a stack of info in 'The Good Oil' forum, but it all boils down to what oil is available locally at the bets price.

I dont think anti drain back valves are an issue on a LR (V8's at least) but they are a big issue on a Nissan TD42 where the oil light can take 5 seconds to go out if the ADBV is not efficient. They use 2 filters, mounted horizontally.

I tried 4 different filters including a couple of different fairly expensive Fleetguard filters, all fitted with ADBV's. Also a 'premium' filter which was advertised with a silicone ADBV. The only one I found which worked, ie oil light goes out within a second, even after weeks of sitting, was the cheapo Ryco Z9. In this application it makes me feel better to see the oil light go out straight away rather than get possibly better filtration.

where do you get them and how much do they cost that is the amsoil ea0 filter or could somebody tell me what the best filter that safely fits my car would be.

I dont think anti drain back valves are an issue on a LR (V8's at least) but they are a big issue on a Nissan TD42 where the oil light can take 5 seconds to go out if the ADBV is not efficient. They use 2 filters, mounted horizontally.

I am surprised you say that.
There are numerous posts here complaining of the oil light taking a long time to go out in RV8s, which are fixed by simply replacing the filter.

You only have to look at how much oil comes out when you remove the filter to see how much oil is retained in the overhead gear and cam.

Ryco Z89A BTW seem to consistently have a good anti drainback valve, even the Chinese ones.

As stated before the more important issue is the air filter. I am fussy and have used Purolator , but I just go back to RYCO.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I am surprised you say that.
There are numerous posts here complaining of the oil light taking a long time to go out in RV8s, which are fixed by simply replacing the filter.

You only have to look at how much oil comes out when you remove the filter to see how much oil is retained in the overhead gear and cam.

Ryco Z89A BTW seem to consistently have a good anti drainback valve, even the Chinese ones.

As stated before the more important issue is the air filter. I am fussy and have used Purolator , but I just go back to RYCO.
Regards Philip A

I've always gone by the theory that an ADBV is not necesary if the filter is mounted below horizontal, because the filter should stay mostly full. But its just a theory and Im open minded! I would have put a lot of v8 oil light issues down to worn oil pumps and or main bearings.

Not sure on the specs of this filter but I am running a Donaldson P550008 which is for a 101. It is a higher pressure and flow to cope with the oil cooler they had. My V8 went from running at 34lb to 38lb at 2600rpm ( 100kmh in 5th )

Although a lot of filters have identical thread sizes and base mounts, at the end of the day it's the paper and the bypass valve pressure that determine the main differences.
Ryco are not the quality they used to be, an increasing amount of their line is now sourced from manufacturers in Thailand or China.
I've never been a huge Donaldson fan when it comes to lube but their air filters are top notch.

Mann+Hummel and Hengst would be probably the two highest quality filter (both OEM) manufacturers available today.
European makers tend to get forgotten amongst the plethora of US branded Asian manufactured filters with all the American "blah blah blah we're big and we're the best" sales marketing that dribbles from them.

Search for Manns online catalogue and tale a look at some of the lines. With part numbers you can pull up tech specs etc.
Worth a look. Hella Australia are basically the distributor for the automotive business now. Enquiries to them can locate stockists near you.

Cheers

Andrew


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