Just thought I post a quick update on the exhaust wrap, now that I've driven a few K’s in and out of city traffic etc.
Well I can say that there is a definite heat reduction in the cabin.
The other day when all was fully warmed up and still running I got under and touched the exhaust right next to the transfer case. I was able to "grab" and hold the exhaust.
I then went to the rear of the vehicle and felt the exhaust gas. Now I usually do this (infrequently) to see if any soot attaches to my hand or I can see discolouration (soot). Based on this the exhaust gas felt hotter.
In addition I've noted a lower exhaust noise.
Can't say I've noticed any increase in performance. Didn't expect too either.
Just my experience to date. Yes in my view worth the effort.
Master
[QUOTE=rick130;1442177]OK, things seem to be getting a little confused.
Cast iron shouldn't be wrapped, it'll crack.
I was planning to wrap my d2td5 from the head to the first muffler ,i sure don't want out to crack but I have seen many turbos housings wrapped and they are cast iron aren't they? Is out the great retention that causes tyre cast iron to crack out something else?
Moderator
Did you read the next line of that quote ?Originally Posted by freedriver
I was planning to wrap my d2td5 from the head to the first muffler ,i sure don't want out to crack but I have seen many turbos housings wrapped and they are cast iron aren't they? Is out the great retention that causes tyre cast iron to crack out something else?
You can buy a specific turbo blanket for certain model turbine housings but it's for high performance applications only AFAIK.Yes, race cars wrap turbo manifolds, a 4WD isn't a race car.
If you want to coat a cast iron manifold, use HPC, Jet Hot, Swain Tech, etc paint/ceramic coatings. They don't retain near as much heat as the silica based wraps.
I've been told it will lead to degradation of the housing and manifold long term, but it'd be interesting for someone to ask Garrett what their take on it would be.
When I was racing I used 0W-5 engine oil, (that's not a typo) turned the oil pump delivery pressure right down so that I only had 30psi @7000RPM, touched the rocker pads up every meeting to maintain maximum lift, etc, all in the interests of reducing parasitic losses and making the most HP the engine could deliver, but would you run an oil that light in any road engine for normal use ?
Hell, most of my competitors weren't willing to push the boundaries as much as i was
Moderator
Just a FWIW, the boss (can't recall his name) from one of the big SE Queensland exhaust places rang me a few years back and we discussed exhausts, vortex mufflers, fuelling etc.
(I'd enquired about the mufflers, I'm a sceptic, still
When dyno testing a TD42T Patrol he accidentally found that HPC coating the dump and 3' of down pipe gained 3-4HP over an uncoated system. (not that you'd ever feel that with a bum dyno)
They'd just been swapping bits testing exhausts and mufflers when they discovered this and it was repeatable between a coated and uncoated down pipe.
It really surprised him. All we could think of was that it maintained velocity and therefore scavenging out of the turbine
and further, the stock Patrol system is wrapped for the first 3-4' with rigid heat shields to reduce heat into the cabin.
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