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Thread: RRC diff bearings-servicable???

  1. #1
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    RRC diff bearings-servicable???

    I will list below a link to Imageshack as my photos always seem to end up as just a thummbnail if I attach them.

    The photos show the bearing tracks of the diff bearings in the Quaife diff I have.

    Some of the bearings have scratch marks as if sand has been in the bearing. One Carrier track looks OK but the other is all scratched.

    The Pinion Crownwheel end bearing looks OK but the pinion to flange bearing has lots of scratches and there are scratches on the rollers.(picture)

    I did a crownwheel runout check and the runout is .001-.002 MM which is pretty small so that looks OK.

    The pattern on the crownwheel looked too high so I moved the carriers a little(too much) then backed them off and it looks OK, but it looks to me that the pattern is at one end which implies the pinion is too low or is it high.

    It looks to me that it is getting a little outside the amateur's area.

    Any opinions on the bearings? They have scratches but there is no brinelling/guttering etc
    I reckon I could get away with only replacing the pinion to flange bearing and the diff would still last OK, but probably be a little noisy . But it hard enough to lift the damn thing let alone have to take it out again.

    I have been quoted $350 labour only plus bearings & seal . The guy ( Hornsby Diffs) said they only use Timken and quoted about another $300 for the bearings and seal but that seems too expensive based on my research of Pom and Oz sites.










    Regards Philip A

    They come up as small to me anyway, same as if I had attached them. What gives.
    Last edited by PhilipA; 29th March 2011 at 04:27 PM. Reason: more info

  2. #2
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    So has this vehicle been in muddy water at any time? looks like contaminated oil. Very fine grit. I have recently rebuilt the rear diff / axle of my vehicle. It has rang rover classic diffs. I used a mixture of timken and Japanese bearings like SKF . I even replaced the wheel bearings and was still cheaper than $300 for the bearings and seals. Budget permitting. All ways try and do as much as possible in repairs so as you don`t have to come back to it. Especially diffs, clutches and gear boxes. The setting of the crown and pinion gears is fairly convoluted process. You need a good manual that shows the process. I have the Rave manual on my computer. Did mine as by the book. Has been fine so far.
    Cheers Hall

  3. #3
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    $300- for bearings? Either they've gone up in price or someone's having a lend.

    There's no reason you can't cange the bearings yourself. Buy bearings, bring centre to me and I'll swap them. Not hard at all.It'll take longer to drive over than to change. And I'm in the same city.

  4. #4
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    So has this vehicle been in muddy water at any time? looks like contaminated oil. Very fine grit. I have recently rebuilt the rear diff / axle of my vehicle. It has rang rover classic diffs. I used a mixture of timken and Japanese bearings like SKF . I even replaced the wheel bearings and was still cheaper than $300 for the bearings and seals. Budget permitting. All ways try and do as much as possible in repairs so as you don`t have to come back to it. Especially diffs, clutches and gear boxes. The setting of the crown and pinion gears is fairly convoluted process. You need a good manual that shows the process. I have the Rave manual on my computer. Did mine as by the book. Has been fine so far.
    Yes I have the manual on my computer and I am aware of what is necessary.
    However I have also been bitten before when I replaced the carrier bearings in my Porsche 924 turbo. By rights the new bearings should have been exactly the same as the old ones but they were not within a "bull's Roar"
    I have no problem with the Carriers and setting up the contact pattern, but as I bought this diff second hand , and presumably it was never set up correctly, I have no idea whether even the pinion matches the crown wheel.
    It all LOOKS OK but if reshimming of the pinion is needed , then I have a problem.
    I presume that the diff got grit in before I bought it as all I did before I fitted it was fit a new seal.
    Regards Philip A

  5. #5
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    Yes it`s the shimming that`s the hassle. I`m sort of lucky as I`m a tool maker, and therefore can get hold of the right gear to do the measuring. Not only the setting of the pinion gear but also the pre-load on the pinion bearings. I also had the joy of buying a well used vehicle with a rear diff that was not right.
    Cheers Hall

  6. #6
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    Ashcroft have a full set of quality bearings and seals for GBP40
    Ashcroft Transmissions - Bearing and Seal kit for Rover diff

    For that price it isn't really worth leaving the existing ones IMHO.

    It might be worth setting it up from scratch with the old bearings though and doing a home lapping job??? Then dismantle and reassemble with the new bearings.

  7. #7
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    I dread to ask this... but what sort of noise was the diff making ?
    - Mine (rear?) seems to have a sort of high pitched whirrring noise, only evident on 'drive' but predictably quietens and vanishes on 'float' . - Its 101% load-dependant.

    If anything, its like a lite version of the transmission noise in my Volvo route-bus !

    Could it be a trademark of the ZF trans ???

    James in Gosnells

    95 Vogue SE Classic, with working EAS ....

  8. #8
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    I wouldn't set up from scratch, playing with the contact patch on a used gearset can lead to whining, if it worked fine and backlach was less than 0.02mm, set it up the same, even if the "patch" was slightly out

  9. #9
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    those bearings are marginal at best and given that it should cost you less than $150 in parts for all of them plus the seals shims and consumables its not worth putting them back in.

    you contact patch looks a little high on the tooth but you need to match the contact patch to the existing contact patch or no matter how perfect you get it its still going to whine at you.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  10. #10
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    Superquag wrote
    I dread to ask this... but what sort of noise was the diff making ?
    - Mine (rear?) seems to have a sort of high pitched whirrring noise, only evident on 'drive' but predictably quietens and vanishes on 'float' . - Its 101% load-dependant.

    It wasn't really making any noise that was immediately recognisable as diff noise.
    The reason I am reconditioning is that I plan to do Cape York and it is a Quaife for the front.
    When I had it in 2 years ago , it dribbled out the ( brand new) seal so I assumed the nose bearing had slop, even though I couldn't feel it. Some of the leak was caused by my having the seal too far in and the inner lip was too near the edge of the yoke where there is a taper, but then I looked at the pinion bearing and found it worn and scratched, It then led me to look at the others.
    One thing leads to another.LOL
    Blknight wrote
    you contact patch looks a little high on the tooth but you need to match the contact patch to the existing contact patch or no matter how perfect you get it its still going to whine at you.
    Seeing the diff will run backwards while in the front, does the contact patch position on the other side of the gear still hold? It has only been in the front AFAIK for about 20KK out of 300????KK.
    Also when you fit new carrier bearings how do you ensure the contact stays the same.That contact patch you see is down a bit on what it was, about 1/16 a turn both sides on the carrier nuts. I have all the marks for the original position on the nuts, but I would expect these to change with new bearings.
    Regards Philip A

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