Reply With QuoteIs it possible that the return springs are of unequal tension so one shoe is forced back more than the other? I always wondered why they include new return springs in a brake overhaul kit, maybe this is a reason?
Im no expert but....
Lord Jock
Brake dilemma series 3
I just replaced the front brake shoes on my series 3 short wheel base.
The old ones were not worn out, but it's been eight years since I had done them so I thought bit of a tidy up would be a wise thing.
The drums are standard size and the new shoes are standard. For some unknown reason to me the trailing (rear front shoes) shoes on both sides of the front brakes are dragging. To get the drum on I had to push the trailing shoe back and this would raise the fluid level in the reservoir, but then the shoe (or cylinder piston) would slowly creep back out. They go back in easily without meeting any resistance, so there is not a blockage. This occured on both front wheels. The adjusters are backed right off. The wheel cylinders were replaced several years ago. I took it for a spin and the front brakes are dragging, thus causing the brake drums to run hot. I quadruple checked the manual and it seems I have everything back in the correct order.
It's got me stuffed...any idea's please?????????????
Cheers, Mick
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
Fossicker
Is it possible that the return springs are of unequal tension so one shoe is forced back more than the other? I always wondered why they include new return springs in a brake overhaul kit, maybe this is a reason?
Im no expert but....
RoverLord
you havent got the springs in the wrong holes on the shoes?
is the edge of the friction lining chamfered?
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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Lord Jock
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
I will check both of those things today Dave. The shoes should be shamfered as they come but you never know, and I am certain the springs are all correct.
Thanks for your time and input.
Cheers, Mick
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
Lord Jock
Got it sorted,
Return springs, mainly bottom ones, were stretched about 10-12 mm, so I replaced all springs (top and bottom) and things were a little better but I still couldn't back the adjusters right off so the drum spun freely. Took the old darling for a spin and the front brakes still dragged, grabbed and overheated. Replaced the shoes (which are supposed to be standard size) with the old ones, which were only partly worn, and all good. Closer inspection of the new shoes revealed high spots, so obviously not good quality control, and not radius ground correctly to suit ten inch drums.
I won't say where I purchased them.
At same time I put another set in a vehicle I am restoring, but I had machined .020" out of those drums to clean them up, and all is good with them.
The drums in my daily driver are not up for machining as yet, so I will source another set of standard shoes from somewhere else.
I hope somebody else benefits from my dilema and can solve their problem quicker.
Cheers, Mick
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
G'day all,
I had similar symptoms when I did the brakes on my brother's Series 3 ute.
The new slave cylinders were aftermarket and came from a low cost country.
It had me beat for a while but I eventually found that the slot at the back end of the cylinder which takes one end of the brake shoe was about 2 - 3mm further away from the backing plate than the centre line of the cylinder itself where the other end of the brake shoe is held.
This meant that the brake shoes, when installed, were sitting skewed in relation to the backing plate and the drum. Even with the adjusters wound right in I could not get the shoes to clear the drum.
I'd imagine that a remachined, and therefore oversized drum would probably clear the shoes.
The original LR slave cylinders which were on my brother's vehicle had the slot exactly in line with the centre of the cylinder.
To confirm my theory I put the old slave cylinders back in and fitted the new shoes. They went in perfectly.
Phil
Lord Jock
Howdy Phil,
yeh a real pain the butt, i got to the stage i needed a zip or velcro on my wheels and brake drums because i had them on and off that many times.
It just goes to show that it's important to ensure replacement parts are of a good quality, otherwise they can create drama's galore.
Cheers for now, Mick
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
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