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Thread: Looks like Oil Dilution

  1. #1
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    Looks like Oil Dilution

    What can I say but ****

    I drained my oil last Thursday night a week ago because It seemed a bit high 20mm over the full indicator, I drained 10ltrs from the sump.

    I've been keeping an eye on this week and it increased again by 8mm (driven about 500km)

    So this weekend I plan on doing the seals and washers on the injectors.

    Its a 2002 d2 auto TD5.

    Now I know how long a piece of string is but, I would like some other opinions on if you reckon its the seals or cracked fuel galleries.

    To get mechanic to check would be about $500 I'm thinking if the seals don't fix it I may aswell just get a head from Turner Engineering.

    Anyone dealt with them? What was the cost of shipping.

  2. #2
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    My knowledge of the Rover diesels is very limited, but for what it's worth- oil contamination with fuel that I have seen on Jap diesels many years ago came from the injector pump rather than injectors; failure of O rings leading to fuel traveling along the pump drive shaft into the timing case. I know not the anatomy of the TD5 injector pump and it's drive, so this may not be relevant.

    Edit: just did some basic reading and learned that TD5s don't have an injector pump as such. What will they think of next.
    Last edited by POD; 6th May 2011 at 08:19 AM. Reason: Posted without knowing the first thing about TD5s.

  3. #3
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    999,

    Do the injector seals first. No point asuming the worst until you have tried the easy option. A crakced head is unlikely if you havent overheated it etc.

    POD, thats not how TD5's work. Each injector has its own camshaft driven fuelpump

    Rgds
    Pete

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 999 View Post
    I've been keeping an eye on this week and it increased again by 8mm (driven about 500km)
    That's quite a leak by Td5 standards.
    It is possible to run the engine with the cover off & check for obvious leaks around the injectors that way.
    Scott

  5. #5
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    whip of the rocker cover clean the injectors with compressed air first and draw a line of red oil based dye around each injector and manually jump the fuel pump relay, watch the tops of the injectors for fuel wash.

    if its not coming out there then you've probably baked the head at some point.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    whip of the rocker cover clean the injectors with compressed air first and draw a line of red oil based dye around each injector and manually jump the fuel pump relay, watch the tops of the injectors for fuel wash.

    if its not coming out there then you've probably baked the head at some point.
    Covers off at the moment and I'm searching for how to bridge the relay, I don't have any die though.

    I've new seals and orings ready to fit tomorrow.

    Anyone point me to fuel relay bridging diagrams?

    Edit: Don't worry the circuit is on the side of the relay 'boy, paper clips get warm'

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    whip of the rocker cover clean the injectors with compressed air first and draw a line of red oil based dye around each injector and manually jump the fuel pump relay, watch the tops of the injectors for fuel wash.

    if its not coming out there then you've probably baked the head at some point.
    I have had mine from new and I have NOT baked my head. But I have the same problem.................mmmmmmmmmmmmm.
    Regards
    Robbo

  8. #8
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    you dont have to bake the head to have the problem...

    if you goto limp home mode from overheat and you develop the rising sump oil problem then the head may have been baked causing stress fractures around the injector jackets, if replacing the seals doesnt fix it then its the head, I havent seen one personally with that problem, the one that I have done the injector seals on post overheat had "wiggled" due to the difference in expansion rates between the playdoughish aluminium of the head and the nearly diamond hard injector body.

    for 999 a suitable ink is in every cheap bic pen, rip one apart dip a toothpick into the ink tube and then use that to draw a line around the injectors.

    to bridge out the relay turn the ignition on and wait for the relay to time out... remove the relay then probe the relay socket for 12v the socket leg opposite the one with 12V on it will be the one that powers up the fuel pump. To confirm you have the right one bridge the two sockets perpendicular to the first 2 with a 12v3w bulb and cycle the ignition, if the bulb lights then goes out youve found the controlling side of the relay socket.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    Changed the seals today, took me 5hrs. I couldn't see any obvious cracks only time will tell now.

    Took a while to start after the change but she fired up and I could take her for a test run, I'll drain the oil again tomorrow if I have time then I'll keep my fingers crossed,

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