Thread: Repairing D2 Auto Selector Switch - old one wanted for testing purposes

It looks that neat I thought it was screwed/bolted together.

Still if you get a few spares I'd buy an exchange or outright reco'd unit.

D2 Auto Selector Switch. p/n UHB100190



Drill out the rivets



Cover Off



A cover showing water ingress damage



Lift the tabs over the wire crimps



Tab off - wire crimps revealed



Continue to remove the tabs







All the tabs off



I marked the position of the wheel - this is not necassary



Remove the wheel - notice O-Ring seal either side of it.



The wheel



The cams on the wheel that actuate the switch.



Clean with a contact cleaner that doesn't leave a residue



Prise out the whole assembly - do not remove the tan coloured tabs, and the micro-switches don't have prise open tops.



The silver contacts are moved by the cam on the wheel to actuate the micro-switches. These cams have a mechanical function (not electrical). They will wobble a bit, but test that when pushed firmly in, they have some spring resistance as the open the electrical contact.



The electrical contacts are on the outside of the assembly. Clean these well, they're like indicator stalk switches in the nature of their construction.



Here you can see the wiring and both switches.



Remove the rubber seal and apply silicone to both faces, then reuse the seal and bolt it together using nylock nuts.

sorry if you looked earlier and the pics were not all there and labelled. It's now done.

I should put this up as a tutorial.

Thanks to Xtreme for this help in sending a couple of donor units.

The step by step labelled photo post is now posted in tutorials under the heading :

Rebuild D2 ZF Selector Switch UHB100190

for easy future referral.

good oil ??

Ripper pictorial Michael
As is obvious , I am very new here ... but have had a couple of Rovers for near 12 years now without too many issues ..
until now ... lolol

I have read quite a few of the posts here on this topic , but I still am a bit confused...
My 01 V8 starts fine usually then just lets out a few jolts after 15 min running and then the engine cuts out with all the associated lights flashing , M S and shifter red light ..
It turns over and all seems to work , but it will not fire up ?
I wait ten minutes or so while re trying every now and then to fire her up and then varoom , away she goes ... no lights , everything ok for another 15 / 20 min or so then it repeats its behavior .

She starts with no probs instantly every time cold with no warning lights on ... it is just once she has been running for a short time and warm that she stops and will not re start most of the time without waiting for what ever caused her to stop , to settle ?

She does not cut back to limp mode either , just stops ?

My question to you mate for your personal opinion/call on my problem is, does this sound like the behavior of a dirty/bad xyz switch, or just a voltage drop ?
Battery is running 12.8 off and around 13.7 on

btw ... sorry to post on your tutorial thread :-(

cheers
Steve

Crank angle sensor ?

... just a thought.

Sent from my iPad using Braille

Where are you located
There might be someone nearby with a scan tool that can look for historic errors to narrow your search. I've had the M&S lights flash with a CAN computer time out error. The loom for the XY switch is near the exhaust, so heat may be exacerbating a problem with the wiring. Have you unplugged anything lately and maybe plugged it back into the wrong plug? I've heard of a Volvo that had the Temp and Volt wires switched under the dash, that would cut out when it got hot. It took a very good and thorough mechanic / auto elec quite a while to find it, after the owner has spent thousands at various workshops.

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