Thread: Engine using excess oil. Any ideas?

Originally Posted by pfillery

My series engine (not a land rover motor but symptoms and solutions should be similar across all petrol motors) seems to be losing oil, dropping from the high to the low oil mark in a matter of one or 2 thousand k's. The car does not leave a trail of smoke behind, doesn't have oily deposits in the tailpipe and doesn't leak more than a few drips out of the sump.

Any ideas on where to start looking? I don't have any excess oil on the underside that would suggest I'm losing it while driving, nor do I have any oil in the water or water in the oil. Unless the used oil fairies are coming in at night and sucking it out, can anyone offer a possible list of causes and solutions to this. Do the engine oil additives you can get to reduce oil consumption and stop leaks, help worn engines etc actually do anything or are they just hiclones? A few reputable lube companies make them (Nulon, valvoline etc).

Any ideas greatly appreciated.

Hi

Firstly dont get caught with the level on the dip stick varying with the vehicle being on uneven ground.

How worn is the motor? sometimes the compression still measures ok, but the oil rings are finished, or could be just sticking through a lack of oil changes in the motors past.

Sometimes the valve stem seals can go hard and oil can be then drawn into the motor when under deceleration, high vacuum conditions.

What type and make of motor is it ?

Cheers Arthur

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Hi

Firstly dont get caught with the level on the dip stick varying with the vehicle being on uneven ground.

How worn is the motor? sometimes the compression still measures ok, but the oil rings are finished, or could be just sticking through a lack of oil changes in the motors past.

Sometimes the valve stem seals can go hard and oil can be then drawn into the motor when under deceleration, high vacuum conditions.

What type and make of motor is it ?

Cheers Arthur

Motor is a holden 186. Even so this is a technical question so moderators can this please stay in this category for the moment.

Supposedly was rebuilt back in 2004 when installed and not done too many k's since then (less than 20k), however no direct evidence is there to support this.

When I check the oil it is always in my garage or in front of it where the ground is even and if done in the same location provides a consistency with the readings.

When you say that it doesn't show smoke at the exhaust pipe have you had that verified by someone following you?

I have used the fuel treatment and engine flush from these chaps and it worked very well. I also used Redex years ago on my P6, which reduced the oil consumption from 3 litres/200km to 1 litre/200km by unsticking the rings.
Cost Effective Maintenance - Home

Cheers Charlie

One litre per 2000 km? Please, find something noteworthy to worry about. this is NORMAL for a red motor working harder than its original design. The oil is likely being used to lubricate the valves as these engines don't run hardened seats and sophisticated valve stem seals.

Originally Posted by bee utey

One litre per 2000 km? Please, find something noteworthy to worry about. this is NORMAL for a red motor working harder than its original design. The oil is likely being used to lubricate the valves as these engines don't run hardened seats and sophisticated valve stem seals.

I usually have to top up with more than a litre to get it back up to level, sometimes closer to 1.5. This much oil every month just seemed a little excessive to me.

Should I be doing something with the valve stems etc to fix this or fitting a rebuilt head, using upper cylinder lube etc, especially given that I'm converting to gas (is gas harsher than petrol on these motors?)

May I suggest you try these two exercises before delving into the internals.

1: Warm the engine to operating temperature, have friend bring the engine to about 2000 rpm, stand behind the car, run at these revs for approx a minute, if blue smoke is present oil is bypassing the oil rings.

2: Drive to a long down hill section of road, the steeper the better, (within reason), start the decent at normal speed, remove the foot from the go pedal and allow the vehicle to engine brake to the bottom, press the go pedal, if a blue smoke is present valve stem seals or guides, or a combination of both are allowing oil to pass.

If #1 is the problem I would try chazza's suggestion, maybe the oil rings are gunked in, (not a lot of Ks in that time. oil changes???) would save heaps of $$$

Cheers John

Hi pfillery

Holden motors in my series Landrovers tended to use and leak more oil during hot weather, how hot does your motor run?

My fix, for making the motor run cooler, was fitting a seven bladed fan (noisy), that were designed for the 179/186 motors with airconditioning.

Other than that your motor may only need an engine flush, some fresh oil with a decent additive then a nice long drive at the weekend to settle it down.

Oh yes! check that the bottom radiator hose has a coil of wire in side it, so to prevent it from collapsing in on its self when hot, as this almost stops the coolant flow when the motor is working hard , make one in the shape of a spring and fit it straight away if it hasn't.

Cheers Arthur

I recently ran my S2a from Brisbane to Corowa and back and was quite alarmed at the amount of oil I consumed. One or two minor things have been tightened up, the fuel pump gasket was leaking a slight amount and consequently has a new gasket fitted, but the only other thing I have done is change my oil. Not merely dropped the old lot and replaced it with new, but rather, changed the brand. I was previously using an oil that was marketed as being suitable for older engines (I have learnt that this means more than 5 years old apparently) and now have switched to Penrite Diesel HPR with a viscosity range of 20/60 and the results have absolutely floored me.
I have never really been a great believer in different brand's claims re their products but in this case I am completely won over.
My engine is running cooler (the fact that it is winter may be a big help in this case) and since I have been back home I have only put 500mls of oil into the engine over two complete tanks of fuel.
My old eengine (2.25) was designed to run on a 30 grade oil originally and I find that all the new multigrade oils on the market simply don't cut the mustard.
I am still at this stage not 100% sure what affect the extra detergent that should be present in a diesel oil will have, but that will remain to be seen.
Regards
Glen