What did you do on your Landy today?

Replaced the front shocks, then the rears.
Now it rides more like it should. Stock marshmallow.
Complements the new radius arm bushings.
Set all the tyre pressures to 25psi.

Changed over ignition coils for the Scorcher ignition. Went to a coil with a lower primary resistance. 1.3ohm to .9ohm.
Checked timing and set at 10° BTDC.

Replaced the cartridge fuel filter which had a plethora of dodgy sealing washers. Used a Mahle filter, good quality.

Took it for a test run, with Cobber the blue heeler, it's his car.
He approved, but then he always does :)

1975 Range Rover 2 Door...still with original bumpers.


Cheers,
Richard

We'll today I fitted a new air comp for thee suspension, the original one had done 208,000 km so it has been a good old girl. I think it needs a merit badge considering some of the stories I have herd. The job it's self was not to bad but running the new air lines that come in the kit is a bit different, we'll not all of them just the intake hose seems to be not quiet right. The pre formed hose seems to run right across the compressor and that grommet just dose not seem to fit anywhere. If anyone has encounter the same issue or has some wisdom to pass on that would be great. Even a photo. One thing I have notice is that it is not that fast at pumping up and is displaying a suspension fault. I am not to sure if this is all because the ECU needs to be flashed?

During the last week I have fitted a 2" suspension lift, removed the rear seats including the east/west dickie seats and fitted a cargo barrier just forward of the rear wheel arches, bolted a fridge slide onto the floor, mounted an ARB compressor under the drivers seat and mounted the diff lock and compressor switches on the overhead console near the rear view mirror. I am now fitting the ARB air locker to the rear of my Disco, after that I have got a Scortcher distributor to replace the original one. I also had Bridgestone M/T tyres fitted.(245/75/16)during the week.Also wired up a dual battery system and extra fuse box for UHF, compressor, fridge and 3 extra 12v outlets in the rear, two where the ashtray was and two in the engine bay. Also moved things around in the engine bay so I can fit the new Airflow snorkel.:). Only leaves the brake controller for the Jayco Penguin and all should be done.

Drove the Discovery2 Td5 up to my workshop to do some fixy/servicey things.
Became sidetracked and spent the day poking around at the RRClassic suffixA that I am intending to restore.
All day spent and not much achieved..but I was like a pig in the sticky stuff doing it.
C'est la vie!

Cheers Bob.

Replaced the Century N70ZZ of indeterminate age, but proclaiming a 1 year warranty with
Delkor Calcium type battery. Marvelled at the two original battery hold down rods and brass wing nuts. I love original parts. But I digress.

The new battery seems to allow better starting with the Scorcher ignition.
I think they (Scorcher) need perfect battery condition.

Bought a pair of new 3" x 1/2" UNF zinc plated Gr8 bolts and Nyloc nuts for the replacement of the panhard rod bushes. $8.50 ! Currently they are stuck fast with urethane bushings, will be replaced with OEM rubber.

Finished the 27mm centre hole of the LT95 holding cradle to fit to my low slung alloy jack.
Thanks to CaptainSlow of WA for lending his example and allowing me to copy/improve, then return. Pete, it's in the post mate.

Faffed about with a couple of other things, fondled a few parts, etc.
Didn't go for a drive, Cobber the Blue Heeler frustrated with me only opening the bonnet.

1975 Range Rover 2 Door....still with an entire, original tool kit.

Cheers,
Richard

Where are you getting your panhard rod bushes from?

Fitted leads to the 2 door, and the cleaned out the boot, found out just how bad the rust is... The floor panel around the fuel filler no longer exists, and neither does the top of the tank. Time to start cutting. Luckily we have a rangey getting scrapped at work. Is a 2 door and 4 door floor the same? Need to cut out the drivers footwell aswell

Pulled the RH back door apart to find out why the inside lock was not working and central locking intermittent. Found the pivot for the bell crank just in front of the lock had disintegrated, replaced it with a bolt double nutted to the winder frame, with one nut turned to have a shoulder for better location in the hole.

John

Help hi l've just rebuilt my 300 tdi new cank cam block honed new pistons cam followers injector pump fixed turbo all new hoses new clutch injectors glow plugs got motor and box back in everything hooked up timing has been done checked and checked all its doing is turning over and over just won't fire help any advice please

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mtisafish

Help hi l've just rebuilt my 300 tdi, new cank cam block honed new pistons cam followers injector pump fixed turbo all new hoses new clutch injectors glow plugs got motor and box back in everything hooked up timing has been done checked and checked all its doing is turning over and over just won't fire help any advice please

---

First crack the injector pipe joint on number 1 injector to make sure there is fuel reaching that injector when cranking the engine over.

Then after making sure that the number one injector is injecting fuel, check to see if it is timed to coincide with the number one cylinder having compression, as it maybe 180° out in the timing and injecting as the two valves in that No 1 cylinder are opening and closing instead.

To check the timing, take the number one cylinder glow plug out, this is to tell when the number one cylinder is at Top Dead Centre ( TDC ) and at it's compression stroke. Mark the harmonic balancer with a spot of white paint when No 1 Cylinder is at TDC and you can do this precisely with a piece of wire down the hole that the glow plug has come out of, then by rocking the crankshaft slightly back and forth, the wire will raise to it's highest at TDC, at this point you should be able to then fit the timing pin through the flywheel housing into the flywheel notch, but leave it out for this exercise.

By cracking the joint on No 1 injector, you will then be able to see when the engine is injecting fuel inrespect to the white mark on the crankshaft.
If you are unsure of the valve timing take the rocker cover off and look at the rear two rockers, at TDC on number 1 cylinder they should be at a point of one finishing closing as the other begins to open - Number 4 cylinder valves should be rocking in other words.

You can start and run those engines briefly without either of the manifolds being connected.