HeHe mistake no.1! Put box in high range and 4th gear, otherwise your bar will drive you out the end of the shed. Think of stalling the engine. Undo to the left.
Easier still use the locking bolt as mentioned.:)
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The mechanic that did my belt had to use a rattle gun and remove the rad to undo it as it was so tight. No amount of trying to just flicking the key or straining on a bar would undo it.
Then he left his socket rachet on the bolt and started the engine....bang bang bang which didn't do the radiator any good at all!!!
Oh well, we all make mistakes.:(
AlanH.
FWIW here's the crank holding tool I made.
I cut the stock, a mate turned and welded it for me.
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/5...oolimg0282.jpg
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/5...oolimg0281.jpg
I intend to make my flywheel locking tool, can anyone tell me what the wading plug tread in the flywheel housing is? (I don't have the wading plug) - thanks
Well, I did the job. Undid crank pulley bolt by bracing breaker bar against chasis member and turning starter, undid with no problems. The pulley needed a puller to remove it but it was not difficult. I only used a 9.5mm drill bit to lock the pump, the flywheel I just put in place by sight but did not use a locking tool. But I did mark all the pulleys and old belt, then transferred the marks to the new belt. And finally to do up the crank bolt I locked it with a cold chisel.
PS what are the threads for the timing cover and flywheel housing wading plugs?
PPS managed to wrestle the fan shroud in and out without removing the top hose, but I may as well have as I think the 'P' gasket is leaking.
1/4" BSPT (19TPI)
[edit] and here's a pic of the tool I made beside the OE plug
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
I use an R380 reverse switch. It fits the flywheel housing ok and you can hear the plunger click into place in the flywheel. So far it has survived undoing and doing up the crank bolt.