Thread: Replacing TD5 Front Crankshaft Seal No Torque Wrench

Originally Posted by 999

My Td5 has decided to leak and I'm fairly sure its the front crankshaft seal. The problem is I don't have a torque wrench big enough.
Can I use a TTY dial get the required torque to the front damper bolt?
I haven't searched google for TTY to Torque comparison figures to bolt size yet.

If you TTY the crankshaft bolt it will break. Calibrate your right hoof on a bathroom scale, use a socket bar of known length, multiply lever length in metres by hoof load in kg by 9.8 and you will have newton metres. A spring scale works too to get kg of applied load. The 9.8 is the conversion factor of the force in N exerted by 1kg at sea level.

Thanks Bee Utey

So your saying if I apply 100kg to the end of a 500mm bar the force applied at the socket will be 490 Nm. (100x0.5)x9.8=490

Working backwards from the required 455Nm

Originally Posted by 999

Thanks Bee Utey

So your saying if I apply 100kg to the end of a 500mm bar the force applied at the socket will be 490 Nm. (100x0.5)x9.8=490

Yup. Works in foot-pounds too, don't need a conversion factor for that:1.65 feet x 220 pounds = 360lb.ft approx.

Originally Posted by bee utey

If you TTY the crankshaft bolt it will break. Calibrate your right hoof on a bathroom scale, use a socket bar of known length, multiply lever length in metres by hoof load in kg by 9.8 and you will have newton metres. A spring scale works too to get kg of applied load. The 9.8 is the conversion factor of the force in N exerted by 1kg at sea level.

Criiikey, that's being resourceful. That's a useful bit of information that I'll have to bookmark and file away for future reference. Thanks.

Originally Posted by bell1975

Criiikey, that's being resourceful. That's a useful bit of information that I'll have to bookmark and file away for future reference. Thanks.

It's how I checked/calibrated my first $10 K-mart torque wrench as a student. Clamp the socket drive in a vice, hang a water container at 0.5m and add a carefully measured number of litres (kg) of water to the bucket.

What can I Say mmm. I tried 3 places this morning to get a new Seal and Bolt with no luck, which was a blessing in disguise.
I decided to further inspect the front of the TD5. I cleaned the whole front with detergent started the her up with out the viscous fan fitted and bought the motor up to 80-85 deg according to the nanocom. Gave it a few good revs, then I noticed a fine mist. The mist was oil coming from the timing chain cover stud bolt hole that used to hold the egr gas cooler. I removed the cooler when I changed the head. I didn't even think the stud hole would be straight through. Doh. I fitted one of the spare bolts I had with some permatex #4 gasket maker and no more leaks.

Now I have an electrical issue from cleaning the front of the engine damn it.

Yes common complaint when removing the EGR cooler! If that info was presented earlier it would've helped IE 'After removing the EGR cooler I now have an oil leak...' some of us here have experienced just such a problem..

Good to hear it is all sorted now

time for you to sit back and open a coldie by the sounds of it


JC

Originally Posted by justinc

Yes common complaint when removing the EGR cooler! If that info was presented earlier it would've helped IE 'After removing the EGR cooler I now have an oil leak...' some of us here have experienced just such a problem..

Good to hear it is all sorted now

time for you to sit back and open a coldie by the sounds of it


JC

To right, I de-egr'd well over 6 mths ago just never removed the the cooler till recently.
Nothing like a cold one after having a win.