I swing spanners for a living and 3/8 is definitely my most used drive size. Probably followed by 1/4 with 1/2 bringing up the rear (apart from 3/4 which is rarely used).
Printable View
I swing spanners for a living and 3/8 is definitely my most used drive size. Probably followed by 1/4 with 1/2 bringing up the rear (apart from 3/4 which is rarely used).
My 3/8" set is also about the most used, the 10mm single hex sockets are a disposable item and I buy them in 2 or 3 at a time. (They get hammered on a 3/8" air ratchet)
I use a 9/16" 3/8" drive socket on a wobble bar with a 1/2" adapter on a rattle gun for removing tailshaft bolts, (I discard the locknuts and buy them in boxes of 200) and these 2 sizes (10mm and 9/16") are very high wear items in my workshop.
I also have a deep reach 12 point 3/8" socket set, and many, many other sizes/ configurations for doing all sorts of tasks on Landies.
I only use my 1/2" set/s in impact form and 12 point form for swinging off headbolts, tightening suspension and anything that requires a big bar....
1/4" is my choice for almost ALL interior work, and with my 1/4" air ratchet it makes quick work of rocker cover, auto trans and engine sump bolts.
There is nothing weak about 3/8" stuff, I'm not too precious about it though, I buy Kinchrome or Stanley/ Sidchrome and when they wear out they get tossed in the bin.
JC
I wasn't suggesting one brand is better than another, I have tools from many brands including Snap-On (all my impact sockets amongst other things), but actually very little Sidchrome because I brought most of my tools with me from the UK.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
As for being 10 times the price, I was looking for a new 1/2inch drive set for a new workshop, and the 40 piece Sidchrome set (33 sockets, AF and metric) can be bought for $190 and lists at $250 or so, whilst the Snap-On 17 piece set (13 imperial sockets) lists at $1000. Add the metric sockets ($400 for the 13 piece set), the additional sockets and other bits to make the same set, remembering that a 30mm Snap-On socket alone lists at $55 and it's the 7 biggest sockets that are missing from the set to set comparison, so another $300 or so in sockets. $1000 + $400 + $300 = $1700 plus a couple of extension bars.
So, ten times the price give or take a few dollars! And yes, I was surprised too, especially as I was looking forward to equipping my new 'shop with Snap-On!
I guess I could buy the BluePoint stuff, which is far cheaper but arguably "Snap-On" only by association!
Just like sidcrome you can find deals on snap-on....buy what makes you happy
In some circumstances, 3/8 with a short wobble head (not the universal joint type) is invaluable. Compact enough to get into a confined space, and the wobble head gives the socket just enough tilt to stay on the nut/bolt.
get a new snap on dealer mate, if your about to spend $1000 on a socket set, and he isn't willing to sweeten it for you then he doesnt deserve your business.Quote:
Originally Posted by Warb
on the subject though, i use my 3/8 set 95% of the time
i have a set of deep sockets (8mm to 19mm), a 3/8 long ratchet, with a lockable adjustable head: (the bigger one here)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/202.jpg
and a 3/8 drive cordless rattle gun (SP brand)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/203.jpg
and they do pretty much everything i ask of them.
I suspect that they have been invented a number of times, with patents for various aspects of the design. From my reading they have only become commonly used (in maintenance - probably first used extensively in manufacture) round about WW2, possibly because they were too expensive for most people prior to that.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
They have become far more generally used in my lifetime, perhaps because of the more general specification of torques for tightening (although there is a question as to which is cause and which is effect!). I think the about the only torque specified in the Series 1 factory manual is the head bolts - but by the time the 90/110 manual was produced, torques were specified for almost every bolt on the vehicle.
John
The 3/8 drive set is the most used in my tool kit, they were during my workshop days and still are now, the acquisition a few years ago of a stubby, rubber grip handled kingchrome ratchet has been a major plus:):). Just finished a complete rebuild on my lister st1 backup genset motor used 3/8 drive for the complete job except the removal of the flywheel retaining bolt, 3/4 drive rattle gun.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Ermmm no, all bolts have a "standard" torque setting. At the begining of most workshop manuals theres a look up table that gives a torque value for each generic size, thread and type of bolt. If the manual then tells you to tighten a bolt you're supposed to use that look up table, if its different for some reason then the nominated torque setting is given.
SAE Standards
metric
To repeat what I said (sort of) - I do not have a Series 1 manual to hand. I do have a Series 2a one though (p/n606407/8). No such table, although a torque wrench is listed in the tool list at the back of volume two. Tightening torques are specified for quite a few bolts, particularly on the engine, but this is by no means general. This specification of a "standard" torque is relatively new, certainly post Series 2a.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
To step back a few years, I have a 1927 Dykes Automotive Encyclopedia - it does not have an entry in the 89 page index for torque wrench or tightening torques, and the six pages of fine print listing workshop tools does not include torque wrenches. (Does include sockets though, but no mention of size of the drive square.)
Of course, if you simply meant that they don't specify a torque for every bolt these days, but use a table that you are expected to refer to, you are of course right. But I stand by my premise that fifty years ago specifying tightening torque at all was reserved for critical applications, and eighty years ago not even there.
John