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Thread: Maxidrive A frame Ball joint question?

  1. 10th September 2011, 06:22 AM #1
    wagoo
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    Maxidrive A frame Ball joint question?

    Are they still available? Are they rebuildable and do they have plastic lined balls like the originals?
    Wagoo.
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  2. 10th September 2011, 07:04 AM #2
    clive22
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    There still on their website
    Maxi-Drive Land Rover accessories, Land Rover used parts, Land Rover spare parts suppliers for Brisbane, Queensland and Australia wide

    I put one a while back.
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  3. 10th September 2011, 08:18 AM #3
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    Blknight.aus
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    MR automotive has taken over the MD gear.

    yes the units are still available, from my experience...

    adjust them untill they no longer adjust and then fit a new one, DO NOT attempt to repair one, while its doable you wont get a decent life out of a rebuilt unit.
    Dave

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  4. 10th September 2011, 05:12 PM #4
    inside's Avatar
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    I bought an X-eng one recently, haven't fitted it but quite a bit cheaper. http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Ball.asp
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  5. 10th September 2011, 05:39 PM #5
    wagoo
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    Thanks for the replies. I want to replace the chassis end bushings of the front suspension links with Rose/heim joints, but they are not legal. I've worked out a way of using A frame ball joints but they must be the adjustable type, and of course readily available.
    Wagoo.
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  6. 10th September 2011, 08:50 PM #6
    uninformed
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    what vehicle for Bill???

    If RA im sure you are aware that the chassis end isnt the limiting factor....

    Im not 100% sure but I think the MD ones are made from Hy-tuf....and you can get the standard MD type or a longer version, which if being used in its normal application would give your links more vertical seperation...but it would also raise the roll center and increase the Antisquat %...

    cheers,
    Serg
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  7. 11th September 2011, 03:47 PM #7
    wagoo
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    what vehicle for Bill???

    If RA im sure you are aware that the chassis end isnt the limiting factor....

    Im not 100% sure but I think the MD ones are made from Hy-tuf....and you can get the standard MD type or a longer version, which if being used in its normal application would give your links more vertical seperation...but it would also raise the roll center and increase the Antisquat %...

    cheers,
    Serg
    They are for the 3 link front end of my portalled vehicle Serg. Because my springs are mounted behind the axle centre line, compliant bushings have to work hard to control torque reaction. I already have an A frame ball joint at the chassis end of my top link, which has proven to be successful.
    Wagoo.
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  8. 11th September 2011, 04:55 PM #8
    uninformed
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    what about big TRE from ag eqipement etc?
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  9. 11th September 2011, 06:21 PM #9
    wagoo
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    what about big TRE from ag eqipement etc?
    Last time I attempted to use agricultural components on a road vehicle (70degree double Cardan joint) I was informed that AG equipment doesn't necessarily comply with Automotive Standards. With much faster tractors these days that may no longer be the case, but have you seen how sloppy the Heim joints on even new tractor 3 point linkage is ?
    Wagoo.
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  10. 28th September 2011, 05:00 PM #10
    wagoo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    MR automotive has taken over the MD gear.

    yes the units are still available, from my experience...

    adjust them untill they no longer adjust and then fit a new one, DO NOT attempt to repair one, while its doable you wont get a decent life out of a rebuilt unit.
    I picked up a couple of sloppy genuine adjustable A frame ball joints for free and dismantled them to see what wears. They were rusty dry from lack of lubricant, but after cleaning them up with wet and dry paper, the ball pins on both looked like new with no visible wear. Assuming the plastic liners were the parts that wore out, I cast new ones by melting old lead wheel balance weights into the top liner socket, warming up the ball pin and pushing it into the molten lead to form the hemisphere and then drilling a hole in one liner for the ballpin. Initial assembly feels promising after a little hammer forging of the ball into the new liners. Time will tell how long they last I suppose, but if durability is reasonable, replacement lead liners are fairly cheap.
    Wagoo.
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