I am assuming you have spent days and weeks spraying penetrating oil on it liberally?
(if not - do that first).
If you have a brass drift you can basically hammer away on the cast housing all you want without doing any damage.
I've undone all the nuts and bolts and the flange at the bottom but no movement. The rust is probably holding it in there, I'm only pulling it out as a spare so if it is rusted in am I likely to cause more damage than to make it worthwhile getting out? Or is there an easy way or a trick that helps? The manual says to drift it out.
I am assuming you have spent days and weeks spraying penetrating oil on it liberally?
(if not - do that first).
If you have a brass drift you can basically hammer away on the cast housing all you want without doing any damage.
Hi Pfillery
You are not holding your mouth right and you are definitely not using the correct tool!
By not having the correct Land Rover branded item for removing that relay, time will be wasted in the order of days, if not weeks.
The correct tool can be substituted and the tool you will find, is made by several companies, just ask for a nine inch angle grinder with a metal cutoff disk.
Cheers Arthur
I've had to burn two out in the past,if it's just for a spare I wouldn't bother. Pat
You can rig up a foot plate fastened to chains around the chassis. Stand a hydraulic jack on it and put the pressure on it.
I just figured if it could be removed easilly then it might make a good spare - people always complain that theirs is stuffed. Unfortunately I don't have a brass drift but have been gently trying to persuade it out with a couple of crowbars under the lip at the top (where it goes in between the 2 flanges while tapping gently with a hammer underneath. It's moving but the chassis where it fits has moved more and I suspect that the "hole" in which it resides has broken away from the chassis, not that the relay is moving. Considering the state of the chassis it might need to be cut out, the rest is only goint to scrap so might be worth cutting out the whole section and removing the relay in the vice later. Hopefully there is enough steel in a chassis and bulkhead for someone to want to tow it away for free, otherwise it's out with the trusty 4 inch grinder and cut away. I don't have a trailer so it has to be small enough to fit in a series. An hour's work should see to this but if I can avoid the bother I will.
mate give me a ring when u attempt it i wil come down and give you a hand and pick up that other stuff if u still got it .
I really feel a bit stupid asking this, but you don't have to undo anything at the bottom, it can be dangerous if you remove the four bolts closest to the shaft as the internals are spring loaded and can be ejected at speed.
You only have to remove the top and botton steering levers and the two long bolts inserted longitudinally at the top.
The sheet metal flange underneath the chassis member is only used to hold the bottom of the relay against lateral movement and the relay should slip through it. Removing it won't hurt the process however. Once the long top bolts are out, place a jacking point inder the relay shaft and lift the vehicle off the ground on that point. leave it there even overnight with lots of penetrating oil squirted down either side of the relay from the top.
Otherwise just overhaul the relay with it in place.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
Just out of interest it's easier by a mile to overhaul in place with a hose clamp over the wedges and a piece of pipe pushing down over the shaft. Pat
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