I'm looking at doing mine also along with the water pump, thermostat & all hoses. I sure hope I don't have to undo half of the car to achieve this. Have you purchased a new radiator yet? I'm wondering about price etc.
I am going to replace the radiator in my Disco over Christmas. I note that RAVE says to remove half the car plus the intercooler to do this.
Is this really necessary, I might do an intercooler clean at the same time.
I would have thought that you just pull out one cooler at a time to get to the one you want.
Regards Gordo
I'm looking at doing mine also along with the water pump, thermostat & all hoses. I sure hope I don't have to undo half of the car to achieve this. Have you purchased a new radiator yet? I'm wondering about price etc.
+ 2016 D4 TDV6
Got my auto trans fluid cooler out without removing the front half of car! Have to remove fan and a lot of wiggling to accomplish!
Cheers,
Dave
1974 Military Lightweight Landy --- Some dementia at 50 years old
2000 Disco series 2 now sadly moved on!
No5 Trailer joined the fold... Awaiting graduation to road licensed!
2021 Mazda BT50 or is that DMax?
Intercooler is attached to Radiator
Its not that hard to do.....
It's not a difficult job albeit fiddly when re-installing and a 2nd pair of hands really assists.
Things to watch out for that will help you -
- When you remove the fan, cover the hub with a sheet of carboard to minimise any damage to the radiator. Although you may not care seeing as you are replacing old with new. However when installing, cover the rear 'face' of the new radiator with a sheet of cardboard so you wont damage the fins when you rock the radiator back and forth during fitment.
- For absolute ease of fitment and room to see what you are doing and get at the lower rad hoses (See below) - remove the radiator grille, intercooler hoses, airbox and battery box. These steps are not mandatory and are not an onerous task......it's just so much easier to have room to move around in what is a very tight working area!
- Remove the original LR hose clamps and throw them as far away from you as possible. Replace with good quality hose clamps while cursing the LR production line person who installed the lower L/H hose clamp (As you look at the engine bay) upside down and reversed to all of the others making it near impossible to get to it and get the rad hose off. Those that have gone through the same problem will know what I mean
- If you haven't junked the EGR gear, then definitely take the opportunity to remove and flush out the intercooler.....you'll be surprised what washes out! (Now would be a good time to remove the EGR)
- Finally, if you did decide to remove the grille etc for ease and room to move - remove the thermo fan off the A/C condensor and clean out the years of bugs and insects that will have accumulated behind it and in the fins of the condensor.....You could even get keen and install some wire mesh/insect screen behind the grille to stop the steady stream of bugs getting caught there!![]()
Thanks to everyone for the info.
After having a good look today it makes sense to do all the hoses and water pump and thermostat etc at the same time. Removing the radiator makes a bit more room to get at things and it would be silly not to do it all.
Might even change the intercooler hpses at the same time.
Regards Gordo
Hello,
I changed my radiator / Themostat and EGR kit last night, was fidley getting it all out but once I knew what to do it just all fell back togerther.
I left the grill on,I just lossened the top clips enough to remove the bracket that the cooler locates into and the air box.
higly recomend throwing away the landrover hose clamps also,
I got all my parts from Paddocks UK, cost of rad and cap / themostat and EGR kit all delivered to my door for under $300, less then a new radiator here in OZ.
As said above, it's easy enough to take out the intercooler with the radiator. Whislt it's out take a look at all the joints for the water pump and onto the lower coolant rail and clean up if necessary. Mine had corrsion on them all but only started weeping after the rad was replaced, would've been much easier to sort out without everything back in the way! Also, cut down the screws holding the upper shroud in place to reduce the risk of them inducing leaks in the new end caps.
If you are doing the water pump it's worth the effort to replace the o-ring between the water pump bracket and block. It's actually pretty straightforward to remove the bracket without touching the centrifuge and drain pipe. Once the bracket is out you can refit the water pump on the bench (or bit of cardboard on the ground).
The LR clamps are fine IF you a) use a pair of hose clamp pliers and b) clean the mating surfaces of build up and grime.
The "timing marks" on the hose ends are meant to line up with the arrow/marks on the corresponding fitting. This is described in the General Information > flexible pipes and hoses section of RAVE.
Cheers
Paul
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