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Thread: BUICK BITS INTO ROVER V8

  1. #21
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    This from Wiki,,

    "In the mid-1980s, Hotrodders discovered the 215 could be stretched to as much as 305 cu in (5 l), using the Buick 300 crank, new cylinder sleeves, and an assortment of non-Buick parts.[5] It could also be fitted with high-compression head from the Morgan Plus 8. Using the 5 liter Rover (check out the references--)block and crankshaft, a maximum displacement of 317.8 cu in (5,208 cc) is theoretically possible."


    anyone know where a Buick 300 is parked??
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  2. #22
    Join Date
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    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  3. #23
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    Just for giggles
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #24
    Davehoos Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Looking at that site, a P76 crank wouldn (86 mm) instead of the P76's 3.5 inch (88.9mm). Has anyone made a P76 crank fit the 3.5 block?
    sent one to france for a late model rover.recently sent a a few for scrap-forced clean up.i noticed a few more gone missing since the srapies left.

    crank hits the sides of the block on a P6/SD1 block-the flywheel is different.the engine i know of converted to p76 rear main seal.

    lots of these conversions done in the 80's.this was to keep the ADR27 engine number.its common to come across leyland blocks with rover heads and engine numbers stamed on.
    the give away is the leyland number flange brocken off or modified.

  5. #25
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    I have been asking myself WHY?
    Why would you go to all the machining to modify cranks that are unattainable in OZ anyway and are 50 years old rather than buy a tailored stroker kit that is made for the engine.
    Unless you have your own fully equipped machine shop, the end cost would be similar IMHO.
    Regards Philip A

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    I have been asking myself WHY?
    Why would you go to all the machining to modify cranks that are unattainable in OZ anyway and are 50 years old rather than buy a tailored stroker kit that is made for the engine.
    Unless you have your own fully equipped machine shop, the end cost would be similar IMHO.
    Regards Philip A
    Can you give such examples of said kits?

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    Can you give such examples of said kits?
    Not so common now but before the 4.6 there were a few kits available to stroke a 3.5 to 4.3 and a 3.9 to 4.7, cost was about $2500+ .

    I agree with Philip, a P76 crank is 25-40 years old and spares are non existent, in saying that i have a complete low mileage 4.4 in my shed awaiting a new home.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    Can you give such examples of said kits?
    Look here:

    Real Steel

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Look here:

    Real Steel
    There were local offerings as well, i think TR spares probably still sell them.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    I have been asking myself WHY?
    Why would you go to all the machining to modify cranks that are unattainable in OZ anyway and are 50 years old rather than buy a tailored stroker kit that is made for the engine.
    Unless you have your own fully equipped machine shop, the end cost would be similar IMHO.
    Regards Philip A
    I asked the original question for several reasons.

    (1) I have the opportunity to purchase a low k's one owner RR from a deceased estate.

    (2) I regard the 3.5 as grossly underpowered to set about the job of moving a two ton car around.

    (3) Easiest and cheapest horsepower is adding cubic inches.

    (4) I plan to be in the USA again next August for the Monterey Historic Races and the Pebble Beach Concours. I could pick up the necessary bits whilst there. I was thinking of a complete 340 engine until told about the 300 crank.

    (5) I am a Machinist, First Class, and can do any mods needed to the crank other than finish grinding.

    A Buick 340 is no heavier than an RR with a steel bull bar and/or winch which I won't be fitting.
    URSUSMAJOR

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