Pin/pin should certainly relieve a lot of the stress on the shocker shafts as the bottom of the shock tries to tuck under the chassis during articulation.Quote:
Originally Posted by LowRanger
Bill.
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Pin/pin should certainly relieve a lot of the stress on the shocker shafts as the bottom of the shock tries to tuck under the chassis during articulation.Quote:
Originally Posted by LowRanger
Bill.
Bill
The setup that I run,is very common on British winch challenge vehicles,and seems to work very well.I run +5" shocks and have no noticeable defection in the shock shaft on full extension.I am also running 500mm free length rear progressive springs(made for a Patrol) so they are reasonably tall,but being a real progressive spring,with different diameter wire at the end,and not just block progressive(where the windings are just wound tighter with the same diameter wire)they give a very nice ride,especially compared to the "flexi coils" that I had previously.
I also think that a lot of the pressure is relieved by "NOT" over tightening the nuts mounting the shocks and over compressing the shock mounting rubbers.Which I have found to flog the rubbers out much quicker,and inhibit movement of the shock shaft laterally.
Wayne, I've always been of the opinion that if you run a variable rate coil, taper ground wire is the way to go.
Those springs of yours are tall, any idea of the rates and loaded height at all ?
My minds pretty much settled on air bags for my 130 as it's a work truck, but I still think like a coil spring :D
Rick
From my experience running both a true progressive(taper ground wire)
and also a block progressive spring,then there is no comparison.The taper ground wire spring is far superior in both ride comfort and handling.
But I would only recommend them for the rear in a L/R.
I removed the block progressive springs from the front,as I found that they gave indifferent handling on the road,and on faster offroad sections they were too soft,and running them any harder would have negated the "flexi" out of the flexi coils.
I have since weighed the front corners of the vehicle in its full running condition and had linear springs made to allow the vehicle to sit level and to still allow the full travel of the front end.I also run +5" shocks on the front and have raised front towers,and am still able to tuck my 35's as far as they can travel on compression without fouling on the inner guard.
I have been looking into fitting airbags,but I want them front and rear,and just keeping an eye on what others have done,and the ongoing development of others,before I jump in and make the investment in both money and time.And unfortunately due to work commitments,I have to make the best use of what free time I have available.
I am not sure of the rate of the rear springs,as they were sent as a trial set,which I have kept,and the place I ordered them from,doesn't like to give out specs.
But I will go out and check the loaded height shortly,as soon as I recover from working last night.
Ok just went out and measured the spring height in the vehicle,with the vehicle loaded with enough gear for a weekend for 2 people,and they measure 370mm
Wayne, I might have missed it on other threads,but with a 5'' lift, have you relocated your panhard rod and rear A frame balljoint mountings?Quote:
Originally Posted by LowRanger
My experience with suspension lifts, without significantly widening the wheel track. is during cross articulation the rear tyres foul on the spring perches, due to the articulation axis of the axles moving lower in relation to the chassis.The only way I could resolve the rear fouling problem on the RR/LR hybrid was to lower the suspension down to where I now have an unladen 130mm of rear bumpstop clearance.and spring length on level ground of 340mm.The front radius arms don't allow enough articulation to cause fouling unless I pull the pin on the left hand wristed arm, whereby the right side tyre will foul on the spring perch and witches hat during cross articulation with a bit of right steering lock.
Bill.
Bill, you could fit a MD extended ball joint, that would raise you roll center by 1 inch....it would of coarse increase AS.
BillQuote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
The springs I have give me somewhere between 2-3" lift.
The shocks are approx +5",front spring towers are raised 2" and rear upper mounts are custom.
I just went out and measured the bumpstop clearance F&R and it is approx120mm.Not that this means a lot as I have longer bump stops in the rear.
I run 35/12.5/16 tyres & have 8" wheels that are offset -25mm which helps to keep the tyres off the spring perches.There is a minor polishing of the rear upper perches,but there is no noticeable marks on the inside of the tyres.Considering the type of work the old truck does,I am more than happy to put up with this.
I did have a lot of rubbing on the upper perches with just a 50mm lift and standard wheels fitted with 267/75/16 tyres.
I am unable to run these anymore since changing the diff ratios to 4.11/12.
And have an underdrive here waiting for me to find another transfer case that doesn't leak:cool:
so long as youve factored in the droop and the brakelines length go relocation.
based on what???Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus