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Thread: mitsubishi 4m41t into 98 v8 disco

  1. #1
    pibby is offline Master Silver Subscriber
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    mitsubishi 4m41t into 98 v8 disco

    Apologies, another engine swap thread.

    Vehicle is a 98 disco v8. it’s set up perfectly for me except it needs a diesel in her. I’ve had tdi’s and a td5 but at this point am not looking at them.

    Looking at two options.
    4bd1t – have spoken to jc and it’s all doable but I will need to put a manual in. I still have question marks over fuel economy with these. Around 10.5 to 11.5 seems to be the norm. when fuel is $2 litre I feel the economy needs to be a bit better.

    the other option to explore is a 4m41t out of a Mitsubishi. I have recently bought a triton with the mechanical 4m40t 2.8 and wasn’t expecting too much from it. unloaded she goes plenty for me. Last week I had to cart some loads of gravel in the tray and trailer and across the weigh bridge was 1.9 ton payload. I was surprised how she went – I put it as the equivalent of the td5 defender I had. Unloaded it is much quicker getting up to speed than the td5 but horses for courses, I’m only comparing the motors not the vehicles.

    So I gave someone a hand picking up an old valiant up the east coast in tas and he has the 4m41t 3.2 motorin his triton. Car plus trailer would have been bit over 2t but what grabbed me was going UP hills it would accelerate (it’s a manual).

    Anyone any experience with these motors or know of ones being used in discos?

    Is there any obvious reasons why they wouldn’t be suitable? Buy a motor with wiring loom and ecu then get someone who knows how to turn off the bits on the ecu that are not needed. Is it a matter of engine/tranny adapter (possibly get one made doubt there’s any off the shelf), engine mounts, anything tricky with the common rail setup, Will it require cats being installed in the exhaust?

    I would imagine putting an r380 in to replace the auto.

    It’s not something I would look at doing hands on myself.

    I like the old disco, it’s nicely pre dented and used so a good diesel in her should give her another 10 years service.

    Just dreaming, but my house is on the market so if it sells then dream could become a reality within a matter of weeks (touch wood).

    Otherwise just go and buy a new ranger but I’d prefer to give the disco another shot at life than break her for parts……

  2. #2
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    I realise you are comparing motors.
    Bu the Triton is probably lighter than a Disco in body weight, so less weight to drive.
    The Transmission and differentials on the Mitsu were designed to compliment the engine as a drive line system.
    Mating up the Mitsu to the old Land Rover drive train would not get the same performance.
    1.9 payload that the vehicle weight from the equation and add the
    Disco body weight and a loaded a loaded trailer of gravel weight and even though the Disco is not carrying gravel in the boot, will come over this weight, Discos are over 2.0 tonne on their own.
    So you can't compare as you don't have all variables in the equation.

  3. #3
    pibby is offline Master Silver Subscriber
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    forgot to add - vehicle with me in it on weigh bridge was 1.9t. but this is my vehicle with the 4m40t. this is not far off discos.

    the 4m41t is another step ahead of this and weighs the same. without being sacriligeous my feel from the drivers seat is the 4m41t is another generation ahead of the td5 with regards to pulling loads.

  4. #4
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    If your main criteria is fuel consumption, you will need to find BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) figures, which tell the real story. Dougal has posted BSFC for the 4BD1T somewhere, which was about the lowest in the class at the time it was made.

    In general though, the cost of doing a conversion, the cost of rebuilds/maintenance and the cost of spares is much more than any fuel savings. If there is 2L/100km difference between the isuzu and another engine, that amounts to $400/10000km (at your price of $2/L). While that sounds a lot, fitting a newer engine that hasn't been adapted before could easily run to an extra $4k (100k km) extra in motor and adaptor costs. Not to mention all the wiring for a computerised engine.

    If you want to save fuel, the smallest engine which will do the job will likely be the most economical, because BSFC aside, it will use the least fuel when you don't need power. In that vein, the Amarok 2.0 with compound turbos would probably be the best candidate.

  5. #5
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    The relative drive-trains, specifically engine RPM / road-speed comparisons may prove a problem, as Jap engines seem to work better at higher RPM's. Which means their own transmission and final drive ratios... You may need to change your diffs. I have'nt checked, but it's worth looking at. The Return of Investment would be problematical. ("Too 'ard, too 'spensive, - fergettaboutit")

    Couple of years ago a friend of mine with a well maintained and 'chipped' diesel D2 (since new) finally had enough of continual breakdowns caravanning around Oz. - Every department of the drive-train had let them down, as well as lots of niggling engine/electrical problems.Not anything major, just every possible part that could play up, did.

    Shrt story is, Wife got fed up whilst majorly stranded -again- in Qld and She traded it for a late model Pajero, 3-point something? litre diesel.

    After a suitable Period of Mourning, he's now much happier and She's stress-free. As their days of 'serious' off-roading are now in the past, their needs for a reliable tractor are well-met in the Mitsubishi.

    And it accerates going up long steep hills. Overall he's very impressed with the engine' greater performance over the D2 -, but that's obviously the engine/trans/diff package.

    She likes the extra room.

  6. #6
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    Another pearl ot Wisdom from SuperDag.
    I ve got a mate whom bought one of those bitzermishies, for the big lap , started in Adelaide , the Trans blew in Gawler (50 ks out) , replaced but alas it blew again in Ceduna , then to top it off if blew again in Perth , took out thr TCASE as well .
    Lifes a bitch aint it Superdag !!!!

  7. #7
    pibby is offline Master Silver Subscriber
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    thanks for replies.

    the 4bd1t is definitely not off my list, just trying to understand if possible to utilise all of the advancements in diesel technology in an older land rover. (though not including my 2a and 3 series). it would seem the best way to keep these cars on the road into the future as daily drivers. sure you may put $10k into doing it but it's worth it in the long run.

    isuzurover - my brain seems to be happy to pay up front for something and then have smaller outlays down the track. so if you have to put an extra few grand into getting it done and it means everytime you fill her up the fuel bill doesn't grind - i like it. a trip down the coast stays a trip down the coast instead of a trip down the coast but geez it's going to cost a bit in fuel. one of the mitsubishi triton forums i was reading had people regularly getting low 8l/100k some talked of in the 7's but that's getting harder to believe. my td5 defender with no bullbar and no load was bang on 9.3/9.4l/100k. that was with around town too - i think that is good.

    the initial response seems to be the 4m41t only works with what it has been mated to from factory. in my naivety i assumed with gearing you just change one of the parts of the driveline to get it right - either t/f or diffs (or gearbox). looking on ashcroft's site there are plenty of options available for t/f and diffs using land rover. the motor has more than enough grunt to cover a wide variety of options.

    i have had a look at the specs in the library for what came with the 4m41t in a pajero.

    gearbox :
    1 4.234:1
    2 2.238:1
    3 1.398:1
    4 1.000:1
    5 0.761:1
    reverse 3.553

    transfer :
    high 1.000
    low 1.925

    final gear : 4.100

    121kw @3800rpm
    373 nm @2000rpm

    can't recall if 15 or 16 inch tyres.

    whilst i'm asking about the 4m41t the principles involved help to understand what are the variables involved in determining what goes into deciding if a motor/drivetrain combination will work.

    it's interesting to find out how many things go into making a car drive right especially when it's an area i'm not involved in, there's so much stuff on this site and knowledgeable people - i always enjoy having a read of it. so thanks for the contributions everyone!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS View Post
    Another pearl ot Wisdom from SuperDag.
    I ve got a mate whom bought one of those bitzermishies, for the big lap , started in Adelaide , the Trans blew in Gawler (50 ks out) , replaced but alas it blew again in Ceduna , then to top it off if blew again in Perth , took out thr TCASE as well .
    Lifes a bitch aint it Superdag !!!!
    With Three transmissions in One car driven by One person towing One load... One would say the 'numbers' are against him...
    -Anyone think to check the transmission oil cooler circuit? Oil type & amount? Correct (length) dipstick?


    Actually, the Pearl of Wisdom came from the Ex-Disco owner, always been a LR Tragic, bought it from new, was his Pride & Joy, oil & fluids changed often and regularly, career in the Motor Trades so he knows which end of a spanner is which, fastidious worker, etc etc. - You get the idea...

    Apart from the space, Wife also likes the better air-conditioner, seats and overall quietness. A legible radio dial is an unexpected bonus...

    Yet I know a bloke who's owned a Rolls Royce for 30+ years and its NEVER Failed to Proceed. - Despite having the original LUCAS electrics..

    You're right 400 horses of Gas, "..Lifes a bitch aint it..."

    Pibby: Don't despair, as long as the engine 'sees' the appropriate loading it should work fine, regardless of whether the reductions are in transmission gears or diff ratios. I'm of a vintage that prefers lots of cubic inches over lots of boost in tiny engines...

    In Good Humour,
    James
    Last edited by superquag; 21st January 2012 at 02:58 PM. Reason: Edditting

  9. #9
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    I had often thought one of these engines would be good in my RRC, but I would want the gearbox as well. Provided it was the SuperSelect version which allows 2wd, unlocked 4wd, locked 4wd and locked 4wd low range.

  10. #10
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    - Bought the Classic 'cos it was so much cheaper than a late model Paj diesel. Less than half of what I paid, which was ...
    If I win millions on Lotto, I'll be having a LSE Classic chassis put under a Paj body and engine/transmission. If possible...Maybe a locker and free-wheeling hubs. - Have the engine re-built for .... - a few hundred HP and on gas (LPG) augmentation...

    - Economical to run (2WD on blacktop) 4WD with & without a CDL, suspension takes me everywhere in total comfort, plus a body and electrics that work. Always.

    Having it built properly? - Ridiculous amounts of $$$,

    - Getting a rabid response out of Jap AND LandRover die-hards in getting the best of their worlds ...- Priceless

    Don't know how rugged the SuperSelect is when worked hard, but a brilliant concept.

    James the Catalyst.
    Last edited by superquag; 21st January 2012 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Better gramma an' bait

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