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25th January 2012, 05:14 PM
#1
Testing an LT230
Going to check out a SH LT230 this evening. Just wondering if there is a quick and easy way to make sure it is working, i.e. not a total dud.
It is not currently in a vehicle.
What's a good price for a SH unit?
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25th January 2012, 05:50 PM
#2
Hi Neil
Have never had to check one myself, but the few things that come to my mind are:
- if empty - remove drain plug and check for bits of metal on the plug and also by putting your finger into the opening in the casing and carefully feeling around. Shavings would indicate damage to gear teeth...
- not empty, drain some lubricant to see how clean it is, and whether there are any metal particles in it. Check it is the right oil (should be EP90 I believe)
- check the condition of the input splines (a known design fault that was apparently there before highlighted by the R380 gearbox problems?)
- try and get an idea of the amount of play in the box by engaging the diff lock and holding one of the output flanges while trying to turn the other.
- spin the input and both output gears to see if they move freely and the bearings feel ok as far as it is possible to tell. I presume there shouldn't be any in-out play(?), definitely no sideways play.
Other than the spline problem from what I expect they are pretty strong and if there is wear, like most Landrovers it comes down to a decision of how much is acceptable and whether the price is right.
Hope I have not made any foolish suggestions above - someone please correct me if I have.
Chris
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25th January 2012, 06:00 PM
#3
I haven't paid more than $300 each for the ones I have bought (3 so far - Late D1 Q-case 1.21:1, D1 1.22:1, RRC 1.003:1), all in good nick.
You want to check the ratio (unless you know?) and also check that it is an LT230T (T=taper roller bearings - early ones weren't, but anything post '90 is good).
The most common faults with the LT230s are worn centre diff gears - however you need to do some dismantling to check this. The other problem is worn/ovaled hole in the front face of the case where the intermediate shaft sits. This one is somewhat easier to check - half of the intermediate shaft is visible when you look from the front. Look for signs of oil leaks from the hole, or silicone as a stopgap repair. The problem is apparently caused by insufficient preload on the intermediate bearings.
If you can drop the pan and check for play and shiny metal in the oil, then also do that.
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