Clutch

**tonic** · 12th February 2012, 03:43 PM

Hi All

98 Deefer 300tdi. Sometimes the clutch will not disengage. Have full pedal, no leaks, full master cylinder.

Does not do it from cold, I can run down to the shops and back, all good.

Go for a drive in traffic with lost of traffic light stops and it will eventually happen, normally when you dont wont it to.

A second push on the pedal and you are all go again. Thing thats got me stumped and why I want some advise before I start pulling things apart, is the full pedal and no leaks anywhere.

All opinions greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Tony

**gmawby** · 12th February 2012, 04:23 PM

Hi,
I hope this is not a repeat of my story.

I had a 96 300tdi Disco that behaved similar to what you are describing. One day (when I was four floors underground) it I could not disengaged the clutch. After much messing about I finally got it to my mechanic. He split the engine and gear box and found the the slave push rod had worn a hole through the clutch release arm. I believe this is not unique to me!

Glenn.

**tonic** · 12th February 2012, 04:58 PM

Originally Posted by gmawby

Hi,
I hope this is not a repeat of my story.

I had a 96 300tdi Disco that behaved similar to what you are describing. One day (when I was four floors underground) it I could not disengaged the clutch. After much messing about I finally got it to my mechanic. He split the engine and gear box and found the the slave push rod had worn a hole through the clutch release arm. I believe this is not unique to me!

Glenn.

Hi Glenn

Looking in the manual I can see how that would happen. Did yours start intermitant like I am getting, or did it just let go without warning?

Thanks

Tony

**Bushie** · 12th February 2012, 08:46 PM

I had a similar thing happen years ago with my Rangie, the spiggot bush in the flywheel had partially come out and was breaking up.

Having said that though, I would fully exhaust all the simpler options first.

Martyn

**Blknight.aus** · 12th February 2012, 09:12 PM

the first 2 things you want to check are

1. the MC fit a blanking plug and see if you can make it move more than the freeplay on the pushrod. If you can its bypassing via the fast fill valve.

2. check the flex line (you may need to take it for a drive and heat it up) if its expanding and flexing with pedal application its knackered.

**langy** · 12th February 2012, 09:15 PM

If 'a 2nd push of the pedal' activates the clutch then the slave rod hasn't pushed thru the fork ( Although you should remove the slave cylinder and poke a torch in there to see if anything is amiss).

Do a master/slave seal kit - won't take that long and you may as well do it anyway for a 98 vehicle. It's possible that the master seals are on the way out.

**gmawby** · 13th February 2012, 08:17 PM

Tonic,
from memory the clutch got heavier and the bite point changed over time then it gave up.

Glenn.

**jakeslouw** · 13th February 2012, 08:36 PM

Originally Posted by langy

If 'a 2nd push of the pedal' activates the clutch then the slave rod hasn't pushed thru the fork ( Although you should remove the slave cylinder and poke a torch in there to see if anything is amiss).

Do a master/slave seal kit - won't take that long and you may as well do it anyway for a 98 vehicle. It's possible that the master seals are on the way out.

x 2 on that.

Or maybe the pressure plate fingers are dying?

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