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Thread: Restoration - Body Construction Help - Panel Tape???

  1. #1
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    Restoration - Body Construction Help - Panel Tape???

    I am looking at re-assembling some of my 101's body panels to take my mind of my never ending spark and fuel issues. I have sourced a good supply of the correct sealed rivets to kick off with but I have some questions regarding the use of a type of tape that appears to be in-between the joints of a lot of the aluminium panels 9which are riveted together.

    1. What is it for? - Sealing gaps, vibration damper, adhesive to stick together before drilling and riveting at the factory etc?? Funnily enough, its not used between some of the few steel to aluminium joints, so not for corrosion protection.
    2. What exactly is it? - 3M something???
    3. Can it be substituted with something out of a can? If its like anything else in life, no, but possibly some sikaflex sealant or similar type product may be suitable and more easily available.

    For the few panels I have left assembled, I know its not particularly sticky after all these years so I doubt its for any long term adhesion properties, and I'm leaning towards its sealing properties or vibration dampening properties. So far google has not been my friend as I keep coming up with generic adhesive tapes, or tapes that should be used in a physiotherapists office.

    Any help much appreciated.

  2. #2
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    In case anyone searches this in the future, I spoke to a panel beater today who specialises in coaches, trucks etc and the tape is 3M Seam Sealer Tape. There are other brands about but 3M seem () to be the only supplier to make a tape wide enough (22.5mm). All the rest only go up to about 12mm.

    TRADESMEN QUALITY 3M Seam Sealer Tape | eBay

    The tape has a number of purposes, some being to reduce vibrations and metal to metal contact which could lead to metal fatigue and corrosion as well as act as a joint sealer.

    Now my only problem is sourcing the wider tape. The 3M distributor in Perth for automotive products only stocks the skinny version, so I will probably order from the ebay supplier above, unless they can get it in without charging me an arm and a leg.

  3. #3
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    Stuee - with the exception of the removable side panels I have not had to to take panels off.

    So what panels have this tape on them in the joins?

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Stuee - with the exception of the removable side panels I have not had to to take panels off.

    So what panels have this tape on them in the joins?

    Garry
    Will drag the few assembled sections of body out when I get back from Jurien Bay and compile a list, or take photos as I doubt descriptions will make any sense. On a positive note the engine is running Will try and get a vid up when I have time.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuee View Post
    Will drag the few assembled sections of body out when I get back from Jurien Bay and compile a list, or take photos as I doubt descriptions will make any sense. On a positive note the engine is running Will try and get a vid up when I have time.
    Engine running - great - why wouldn't it run before??
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Engine running - great - why wouldn't it run before??
    When finding tdc, my bluetac method fell over. I should have just dragged the missus out and made her stick her finger over the spark plug hole. As others suggested, timing was way out, 360 degrees out

    Essentially walked through from the beginning with Mike 90 RR and he helped get it running.

  7. #7
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    3M also make a brush on seam sealer, comes in a can, 1L. Weighs a few Kg/L. Brush on and join/rivet, or you can brush on afterwards. You'll see this method in cars where you can see in the boots and floors painted over heavy brushed material. It sets but doesn't completely harden so it will flex with the movement a LR will have. I used it on all the joints when I restored my S2, really works for the steel/alloy joints for corosion.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuee View Post
    When finding tdc, my bluetac method fell over. I should have just dragged the missus out and made her stick her finger over the spark plug hole. As others suggested, timing was way out, 360 degrees out

    Essentially walked through from the beginning with Mike 90 RR and he helped get it running.
    Been there, done that. Tricks for new players -once learn't never forgotten.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Stuee - with the exception of the removable side panels I have not had to to take panels off.

    So what panels have this tape on them in the joins?

    Garry
    Got some examples now, may not be all but the easiest ones to spot:




  10. #10
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    What about using Sikaflex seam sealer?

    Cheers Charlie

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