Thread: D1 coughs and splutters @ low revs

Reverse the two pickup wires to the Bosch ignition module, then reset the timing to 10 degrees BTDC. You are triggering the amp off the wrong side of the timing pulse. How have you connected the red and blue wires off the old amp?

From my original thread:

What happens if you get the polarity of the two wires reversed? Then the amplifier will trigger (roughly, from the falling pulse) and your ignition timing will be out by a large amount, if it runs at all. When connected the right way around, the timing should occur near where the magnetic pick-up meets the star rotor on the distributor shaft. The air gap here is critical, it should be adjusted to the smallest gap allowing free rotation, otherwise low speed operation might be somewhat erratic.

With the update for the later dissy (serp engine) Terminal 3 blue wire from dissy, Terminal 7 red wire from dissy.

Blue pickup wire to top (small) terminal, red next below.

Hey many thanks
I think that fixed the original problem.
I had it running perfect on gas but I've got a new problem, DOH!

In my friends over zealousness he removed an cut a few wires that came from or went to the coil and a PEEL cp30 Saftey switch for the gas and i just can't figure out what goes where and now I don't have the ability to switch to petrol even thought the petrol pump runs while on gas.
Could you please help me in diagnosing what goes where and what's been cut.
Many thanks

Originally Posted by Vorlon

Hey many thanks
I think that fixed the original problem.
I had it running perfect on gas but I've got a new problem, DOH!

In my friends over zealousness he removed an cut a few wires that came from or went to the coil and a PEEL cp30 Saftey switch for the gas and i just can't figure out what goes where and now I don't have the ability to switch to petrol even thought the petrol pump runs while on gas.
Could you please help me in diagnosing what goes where and what's been cut.
Many thanks

The Peel safety switch needs only one wire from the coil negative to the pulse input terminal (neg. coil). It gets 12V power from the gas switch in your dash. It causes the gas to operate when there's a working ignition. To find out why the petrol isn't working you will need to find the injector cut relay (sometimes an "AEB timing relay") that interrupts power to the injectors. The wires may have been pulled off. You will have to find this relay, there are many different brands and types of relay that do this job.

Also just found out that whatever I've done the air on doesn't work and it's not the fuse it's the clutch not engaging.
Cheers

The peel switch has 4 connections, neg coil, gas lock off, gas 12v, ground.
So are you saying that all I connect is one wire from negative side of the coil to neg coil on the switch?
Doesn't this control the gas solinoids opening and closing?
What about the ground? And the gas lock off?
I have 3 solinoids 2 on the back tanks and one on the converter.
Before the wires were pulled off all connections were wired.
As for the relays they are fine, has the air con not engaging got something to do with it also.
Cheers

Originally Posted by Vorlon

The peel switch has 4 connections, neg coil, gas lock off, gas 12v, ground.
So are you saying that all I connect is one wire from negative side of the coil to neg coil on the switch?
Doesn't this control the gas solinoids opening and closing?
What about the ground? And the gas lock off?
I have 3 solinoids 2 on the back tanks and one on the converter.
Before the wires were pulled off all connections were wired.
As for the relays they are fine, has the air con not engaging got something to do with it also.
Cheers

Like I already said, the Peel baby gets power (ya know, 12v approx) from the gas switch that you have inside the cab, this goes to "gas 12V". Ground goes to "ground", neg coil to "neg coil", gas locks to "gas lock off" . This runs the gas not the petrol. There should be only one connection to the coil from the Peel bit. BTW it's not really a switch, its a relay. A switch IMO has a handle/knob/button you operate to switch something.

Now I reckon you've probably ripped off the negative coil wire to the vehicle ECU, this wire is white with a black stripe. This runs the ECU pulse input. No ignition, no petrol injection. It has a reversed (male) spade that goes into a little brass socket on the negative coil terminal.



As for the a/c, look for wires connected to a/c bits like the pressure switches on the a/c high pressure pipe etc. Maybe it too needs the injection working, dunno anything about that.

Thanks I'll check it out tomorrow.
That white wire with the black stripe has been cut off, I believe it was one of the wires with the large connector that plugged in to the old amplifier thingy, can you tell me where that wire would have come from so I can connect it again?
With the ac I find that there is no power going to the large plug ontop but the fuse has power, could the problem possibly be with the ac button in the car maybe, or as you said it maybe linked to the petrol problem,
Cheers