Perhaps a periodic re-tension of the head?
Studs can help with clamping load, but elastic modulus and creep are material properties (aluminium in this case) - creep (permanent dimension change) also increases with temperature and time.
Edit: I should also add that I don't advocate going to this trouble and expense - polishing a tvrd is an expression used on some other forums and comes to mind here.
Perhaps a periodic re-tension of the head?
Slacken them off and again tension to the starting tension, followed by the corresponding angle.
If you get a greater rotation than originally, then either the head has compressed or the bolt stretched.
You should only do this a few times for any given bolts lifespan. I've reused my Isuzu bolts, they are visually still good. Same for the head bolts on one of my nissans. At $30 per bolt and 18 bolts for the Nissan it was an easy choice.
Slacken them off and again tension to the starting torque, followed by the corresponding angle.
If you get a greater rotation than originally, then either the head has compressed or the bolt stretched.
You should only do this a few times for any given bolts lifespan. I've reused my Isuzu bolts, they are visually still good. Same for the head bolts on one of my nissans. At $30 per bolt and 18 bolts for the Nissan it was an easy choice.
Some bolts are well into TTY (torque to yield) at the factory tension, all mine appear to still be in the elastic region, no visible or measurable elongation/necking so I keep using them.
from vague memory the 300 overhaul manual states head bolts can be re used s5 times.
For the price of a set though id put in new ones and use the old ones for mill clamp bolts!
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
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