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Thread: Fuel Pump - a day wasted!

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post

    The second is to remove the clamping ring and machine, say, 1.6mm (1/16") off its thickness. Then I can fit a 1.6-2mm spacer ring under the pump which will lift the unions clear of the tank just enough to fit the flexible hoses.

    An aftermarket tank shouldn't have these problems.
    Can't you just mark where you need clearance for the two fittings on the clamp ring and attack these areas with the angle grinder?

    Tomorrow I might look at my old dead pump and see if the two steel pipes bend easily. I would insert a #2 philips into the pipe, provide downwards pressure at the union nuts (with a ring spanner) and lift the pipes up a bit.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    You've been on that god thread again ....
    Verily verily, the Bond of Q is like unto the friend of Proverbs Ch 18 vs 24

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Can't you just mark where you need clearance for the two fittings on the clamp ring and attack these areas with the angle grinder?
    Not with a half full tank of fuel and not without dropping the tank (it was a cow to fit). The other problem is that whilst one could groove the outer ring which is welded to the tank, the inner ring is threaded and screws into the outer to clamp the pump in place - so any groove position could change as the ring is tightened.

    It's a bit hard to see from the pics.

    Brown Davis tank:



    Original tank:

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    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  4. #14
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    I don't know Q-Bond. I shall have to Google it.
    I'll describe it as a "2 part glue" .... Superglue with a powder aggregate fill ....

    You will find it at your local Panel beaters .... They use it to glue all the broken plastic parts of the modern car together .....

    Cheers
    Mike

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    I'll describe it as a "2 part glue" .... Superglue with a powder aggregate fill ....

    You will find it at your local Panel beaters .... They use it to glue all the broken plastic parts of the modern car together .....
    Ahh. A bit like I used to do when I built model aircraft back in the 80s - superglue with either glass or phenolic microballoons. I still use the stuff.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  6. #16
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    The pipes are easily bent by my method as I suggested below, they are continuous through the nylon, I broke away some of the nylon to check, as it was already cracked right through. Pipe appears to be mild steel.

    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #17
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Thanks for that BU. I may have to try it. Interesting that yours is nylon. Mine appear to be some other type of plastic.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    Thanks for that BU. I may have to try it. Interesting that yours is nylon. Mine appear to be some other type of plastic.
    Nylon was just a guess, could be ABS.

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