Chassis outrigger swap- how big a job?

**Jitterbug** · 27th February 2012, 01:20 PM

I have some pretty bad corrosion on the chassis outriggers, drivers side has completely rusted through on the forward surface (that cops all the spray off the front tyre).

How big of a job is it to swap my rusty old one out for a new one like this at paddocks;

LR513L | Bulkhead outrigger - LH

Is it just a case of cutting out and welding in? I am next to useless with a welder myself but have a mate who can do strong, but not pretty, welds for a case of beer.

The car spent it's first 15 years of life in the UK and the grit has taken its told on the outriggers. The rest of the chassis, other than this, looks to be in decent condition.

Here is a pic

**Jitterbug** · 27th February 2012, 01:31 PM

And it is on a 1985 90

The rest of the car is in great condition, really want to get this last bit sorted!

**mark2** · 27th February 2012, 02:01 PM

Nice 90!
Yes, it is just a matter of cutting/grinding the old one away and welding the new one on in the right position.
I seem to recall there is a weld on top of the chassis which would mean removing the firewall to achieve the same strength as it was originally. Thats if you replace the entire outrigger. If the top horizontal part of the existing outrigger is ok, a good welder should be able to weld in a patch section without removing the firewall.

**uninformed** · 27th February 2012, 02:25 PM

if you are going to do it do it right. Generally pretty welds are strong and ugly ones are not.....There is an AS code to work to. Get a good welder to do it, someone that is use to welding 2-3mm thick steel as apposed to 12-25mm thick

**Blknight.aus** · 27th February 2012, 04:03 PM

endoscope the chassis before you start doing anything, you may be doing a lot more plating than you think.

**Lotz-A-Landies** · 27th February 2012, 04:15 PM

Just looking at your images I have to back Dave up completely on this one.

There were endoscopes on sale at Aldi for about $100 recently.

**Yorkshire_Jon** · 29th February 2012, 06:48 AM

It's not really difficult, but awkward.

You need to make sure you can support the bulkhead accurately and line the new outrigger up accordingly because that one bolt in the end of the outrigger is essential.

Other than that the biggest problem is getting the top weld in. It's a long while since I've done one but from memory the floor panels need to come out and even then it's not real easy to get in.

Also, make sure you have no wires running down inside the chassis. Many Defers do.

J

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**Jitterbug** · 29th February 2012, 08:01 AM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

endoscope the chassis before you start doing anything, you may be doing a lot more plating than you think.

By 'plating' is that literally cutting out any rusted sections and welding plate in its place?
What tickness plate should I be using?

Thanks for the info Jon, I will make sure it lines up and all the wires are out of the way.

Has anyone brought a galv chassis over from the UK? It would only be $1500 plus delivery, which i wouldnt have thought would be too bad if you are in no rush and happy to for it to take 3 months or so....

**Jitterbug** · 29th February 2012, 08:39 AM

Also, my 90 has had a V8 conversion (from factory 2.5NA diesel). Would this have required the engine mounts to be relocated?

**BigJon** · 29th February 2012, 09:46 AM

I am pretty sure the engine change would have required engine mounts to be cut off and rewelded.

As far as a replacement chassis you would have to check with the rego authorities. They might call it a whole new vehicle as in Australia the vehicle identity is linked to the chassis, not the body.

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