Reply With Quotei brand name is proberly the way to go if its only a bit dearer,inductive pick of course
ForumSage
Its been a long time since I last saw my timing light... suspect it got chucked due to batteries leaking. - so I may as well lash out and replace it.
Looking here on evilbay, timing light | eBay
Any suggestions as to what is worth having ? I can't see the point in a all-singing/dancing DIGITAL variable advance back-scratching whizzo....if the $38.00 cheapy will do the job. ($69- $89 in local shops, but the same unit...)
Then again, the HELLA $78 is more likely to last and be better built/brighter (?) than the cheepy...
I just need it to time my 3.9 Classic. (with Bee Utey's BOSCH ign. module)
Fossicker
i brand name is proberly the way to go if its only a bit dearer,inductive pick of course
RoverLord
I've been using one of the cheap ones for years now with no problems.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ForumSage
Being a Scrooge at heart... thats what I like to hear !
OldBushie
i seldom use a timing light and honestly, its not needed, unless your playing distributor weights/advance curves, just up the timing until such time as it becomes hard to start or the engine rattles (ping), then retard a little, that's optimum timing for the curve your running, make sure you have a tank full of the fuel your going to use, no good tuning for 98 when you stuff 91 in and it rattles its ass off
ForumSage
Hmmm, reminds me of how I used to do it on the Crown, - then use the OCTANE adjust knob for Fine Tuning....
The $38 one is looking even better now.... will try the suck-it-and-see method,,, which worked great just now on my vacuum advance.... kept on sucking and no movement of the plate.
And I was just reading about it on another thread !!! Spooky
So, good IGN system, but dunno when the New Improved spark happens...and the perforated vac. diaphragm is'nt helping either...
AT REST
Subscriber^x2Originally Posted by rovercare
i seldom use a timing light and honestly, its not needed, unless your playing distributor weights/advance curves, just up the timing until such time as it becomes hard to start or the engine rattles (ping), then retard a little, that's optimum timing for the curve your running, make sure you have a tank full of the fuel your going to use, no good tuning for 98 when you stuff 91 in and it rattles its ass off
Initially set your timing statically using a 12v globe or multimeter then advance it until it pings under load (I use 3rd gear up a slight hill) then back it off a tad.
Roger
Swaggie
SubscriberI got a cheap one from the USA on Ebay for about $30 all up AFAIR.
It is the same appearance as my old one, and the same appearance as the Supercheap etc ones.
It works well.
I find static timing very difficult with electronic ignition. Easy with points but who still has points?
Regards Philip A
OldBushie
Just stick it in at top dead centre and start it, advance during road timing from there, still no light needed
AT REST
How do you accurately set TDC timing with electronic ignition? You don't get a timing pulse until it's cranking. A timing light lets you check static, vacuum and centrifugal advance, all for $30-$50 for a cheapie.
PS James I hope you've checked the clearance in the pick-up with a brass 5 thou blade, like a good boy.
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