You could always do a leak down test to check blow-by.
I always used 5% (5 psi leakage @ 100psi cylinder pressure) for my limit on my old race engines, but you'd be mad to use that tight a figure as your condemnation limit on a road going engine.
You could always do a leak down test to check blow-by.
I always used 5% (5 psi leakage @ 100psi cylinder pressure) for my limit on my old race engines, but you'd be mad to use that tight a figure as your condemnation limit on a road going engine.
Sorry old mate.... didn't mean to step on you post count or your toes, we're not all mechanics. I'm simply sharing my knowledge with those who aren't sure ( that clearly isn't you.)
excessive back pressure can cause oil leaks. I asked this question as I'd like to know if my non real TDi300 is within specs in the worn engine department as its new to me. this would be nice to know before I spend money on the rest of the Landie. I also thought this info might be useful for Landy110.
Don't worry Gav,your not the only one with a non real diesel,I have two myself. Pat
So the seperator is part of the oil filter assy? I have not pulled this apart so know nothing of it. So if you could give a bit more info I would appreciate it.
I didn't think I would get oil leaking around the injectors but was worried it might indicate a head gasket failure. I will try to better identify the fluid. ( I understand exactly what you are saying )
The gasket on the rocker cover is new and still leaks, I have put a gasket on it with a non-hardenning gasket sealer in the past and it still leaks.
I washed the engine down recently and have been watching it as close as I can hence these specific questions.
But read on as I theorise about something in a few posts from here!
Thanks
Steve
A certain filter manufacturer I work with - who made some of the OEM TD5 filters, referred to ALL the engines in the Provent field test as "schnickschanckmotoren". (the test included Tdi / TD5 / 3.9(T)Di). I will let you translate that.
So we are all in the same boat.
Yes, correct. At idle/off boost there should be almost no measurable flow/mist coming out the breather.
Well gentlemen, on to the theorising!
Bear with me.........
My vacuum pump has failed AGAIN, approx 2.5 years out of this one, in this case it is not spraying rust prevention but it sounds like it dropped a valve ( actually thought a rocker had come loose and was making a huge racket but the brake pedal resembling a brick wall when pushed lead me to diagnose the vac pump as the culprit.)
Now, there is a well known 4WD parts supplier on the central coast who sell these pumps and when I found the item on ebay from this supplier I read the following :-
" on a Defender the brake booster often has a hairline crack where it is bolted onto the master cylinder (on the Left Hand side as you are looking at it) - this is the main reason why the vacuum pump fails"
Theory:- if said crack exists then the vacuum pump which should be drawing from a closed chamber in the brake booster is actually drawing from a very slightly open chamber due to the crack. This leads to over working the vacuum pump causing subsequent premature failure.
Further theory:- In the case of my engine, and due to the fact that the vacuum pump exhausts into the crankcase. Might it be the case that the vacuum pump which should be moving next to no air, is actually constantly pumping air into the crank case thereby pressurising the crank case causing the afore mentioned oil leaks.
It may also be worth noting that I have rear maxidrive which is of course connected to the vacuum system, does anyone know how reliably these seal ?
I am no master mechanic but I do have a reasonable understanding of things, does this sound feasable ??
Steve
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