Thread: RRC longer front/rear shocks, what size to get?

Hey Steve,

Probably not the definitive answer but here are my plans;

I've got +2" springs and +2" shocks (Koni).

To get the full droop travel from these I understand I need cranked radius and trailing arms and drop shock mounts. About $1200 from coffs on eBay.

Only after doing that are you likely to need dislocation cones and spring retainers.

Afaik the reason for this is that with +2" springs and +2" shocks with standard mounting points your shocks will be +2" extended off their neutral position therefore -2" shock mounts put them back to neutral and allow 2" more drop.

Edit: also a good idea to put extended bump stops in to ensure you don't over compress the shocks.

You might not achieve this without the cranked arms as the bushes will bind.

Your props shouldn't limit this extra droop travel but you can go wide angle or use a double carden front off a D2 but need to swap the drive flanges as well.

I'd be interested to see if just using the drop shock mounts (without the cranked arms) realizes a bit more droop travel.



HTH

Neil

Just read the OP again. You will get an improvement from the longer springs and longer shocks.

Also thinking again I don't actually know how much longer my koni's are.

I might get a set of front and rear drop shock mounts as stage 1 to see if there is an improvement. The expensive cranked arms can wait.

I am running koni raids for a landcruiser 80. I have extended front bump-stops and 180lb/in coils. The lengths work out perfectly for maximum extension and compression with nothing coming loose or binding. I had longer brake hoses made at the same time.

Originally Posted by TELF RRC

Just read the OP again. You will get an improvement from the longer springs and longer shocks.

Also thinking again I don't actually know how much longer my koni's are.

I might get a set of front and rear drop shock mounts as stage 1 to see if there is an improvement. The expensive cranked arms can wait.

Im just trying to get my head around the physics of it all
the way im thinking is that if you put 2"+ shocks and springs, then essentially you will get the same drop, its just been moved lower in relation to the body of the vehicle?
if you got 2"+shocks n springs, then got lowered mounts you would get more drop but less up travel than standard.
so maybe it would need to be 4"+shocks 2" springs, then HIGER mounts, wouldn't this then return the neautral to the same position but give a further 2" of drop?
Not taking in to account the posibility of binding.

I wonder if it would be as easy as unbolt one end of the shocker then jack the body up until the wheel lifts and measue the extra length needed?
just thinking outloud.
I happen the have a set of cranked trailing arms sitting around too, radius arms are out of my budget. I believe its good practice? to die-grind a radius/arch out of the top of the rear diff housing-training arm mount, assists in preventing binding.

Originally Posted by Dougal

I am running koni raids for a landcruiser 80. I have extended front bump-stops and 180lb/in coils. The lengths work out perfectly for maximum extension and compression with nothing coming loose or binding. I had longer brake hoses made at the same time.

so cruiser 80 series shocks are longer than RR?
do you have a spring lift?
what size bump stop did you get?
how much longer brake hoses?
questions, questions................
Thanks