there is a full article on this job in the latest LRO
Hi All
I have just ordered new front rotors for my 1998 Defender 130.
Are there any tips/tricks? I have never touched the hubs before.
I have read the manual....and it all looks pretty simple. I have ordered new lock washers, bearings and seals. Are the torque settings in the manual correct/accurate? From memory for the adjusting nut it states 50Nm then back off a quarter of a turn then torque to 10Nm. Then fit new lock washer, fit lock nut and tighten lock nut to 50Nm.
The actual disc rotor bolts will be fun to get to 70Nm...
Cheers
Andrew
Andrew
1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver
there is a full article on this job in the latest LRO
Have you got the good triple lip seals (RTC3511)? The easiest way to get them to the right depth and square is to use a drive flange as an installation tool (thanks to JC for that tip).
You'll need a 12pt socket for the brake caliper, and turning the steering makes them easier to get to (sounds obvious I know - but thought I'd say it anyway). Think the socket is 12 or 13mm but dont recall exactly, and they can be pretty tight so make sure you've got the right socket or you stuff the bolt head....
Steve
Clean the mating surfaces,when I say clean I mean CLEAN. Pat
Yes I have the RTC3511 seals....but I will have to pick up a 13mm 12point socket...
Awesome...thanks heaps!
Cheers
Andrew
Andrew
1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver
Another little bit of a mod I do is to give the bracket that holds the hose union a little bit of a tickle with mr hacksaw so that the hose assembly can be released from the bracket without breaking the union open. I find this a bit handy later on when doing further work on the front end department.
Andy
Cleaning the mating surfaces with a wire wheel on a drill works well, and I use, (as JC was saying), Loctite 243 on almost every fastener on my cars.
At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
FWIW
One thing I found when replacing the front rotors on my 98 series 1 Disco was that the EBC Green stuff pads that were on there (about 70% pad life left) did not agree with the brand new crossdrilled and slotted rotors. In fact after about 300k's the drivers side pads had started to fall apart (causing a horrendous squeal) and the passengers side outer pad had a third of it missing.........
Went to the local brake specialist and he said I should have put new pads with new rotors (which I kinda knew but the existing pads had too much life left, not now). He also suggested that EBC Greenstuff pads were rubbish and convinced me to put in new Bendix 4wd pads. He said they would handle the crossdrilled and slotted rotors better. So far, so good, though the brakes now do make a slight "hiss" sound when applied that they never used to before on the old chewed out non crossdrilled and non slotted rotors.
Cheers
Goldey
Just arrived: 2012 D4 3.0 HSE, the journey begins again ;-).
Gone: 98 Disco 300tdi Auto, and some extras
You should never use old pads on new rotors, (they will introduce an uneven wear pattern in the new surface) the hiss is the gases disapating through the holes and slots, so your fancy rotors are doing their job
Another point is if you drive in mud a lot, slotty drilly rotors are bad as they can trap grit and chew up your pads real quick
Dave
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