Thread: 1994 110 Defender Front axle and diff service

I just changed my front diff last week.

I simply undid the drivers side tie rod end & unbolted the swivel housings (7 bolts each side that connect the swivel balls to the Axle housing) pulled the housings together with axle out a few inches & undid the propshaft on the diff end & replaced the diff.

That way I didn't have to disturb any bearings / seals / Brake lines or ABS sensors.

couple of pics





but if your bearings / swivel housings need doing then I'd dismantle from the outside

Originally Posted by goingbush

I just changed my front diff last week.

I simply undid the drivers side tie rod end & unbolted the swivel housings (7 bolts each side that connect the swivel balls to the Axle housing) pulled the housings together with axle out a few inches & undid the propshaft on the diff end & replaced the diff.

That way I didn't have to disturb any bearings / seals / Brake lines or ABS sensors.

couple of pics





but if your bearings / swivel housings need doing then I'd dismantle from the outside

That looks a good idea. But I might go back and do the bearings anyway seeing as I purchased them and teh gaskets.
Don't you need to loosen both sides before fitting the diff?

Originally Posted by 29dinosaur

That looks a good idea. But I might go back and do the bearings anyway seeing as I purchased them and teh gaskets.
Don't you need to loosen both sides before fitting the diff?

sorry for the confusing photos
Top pic is the drivers side looking back
bottom pic is the passenger side looking forward

In the top photo you can see the track rod hanging on the ground, i wrapped the tie rod end in plastic so as to not get crud in the treads & under the rubber boot.

in the bottom pic you can also see the empty diff housing.

I also had new bearings , seals, discs and pads, but I tossed up which way I was going and thought that I' at least wait until the brakes had more wear before pulling them down, so thats a future job.

Yes - silly me - too much red knot shiraz and failure to look at pics properly.

This sounds like a really good solution for our dilemma to get the truck back on the road asap. (I've done a google search the last few days and you are the first to mention this method to get to the diff and replace it...) Have you any thoughts as to best diff oil? (We're also doing the uni joints on the drive shaft).

For your area & Temp use 80w90 Hypoid 'oil for Gearboxes & Diffs' Penrite , Castrol etc. I run for 1000klm then drain & refill with clean oil.

Might also be a good idea to get some magnetic diff plugs.
eg eBay magnetic diff plugs

Good luck with the project.