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Thread: vacuum advance?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    vacuum advance?

    How do I test the Vacuum advance On a 3.9 v8 disco?

    Thanks guys.

  2. #2
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    You can pull the hose off at the pleniun chamber and suck on it. If you keep sucking air it is time for change. If you get resistance start the car and suck, see if the engine revs change.

    You can get reconditioned ones from places like Performance ignitions in Nunawading Vic. Last time it was around $69 change over.
    Cheers, David.
    My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
    D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.

  3. #3
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    And after you do the suck test, get a xenon timing light, (ebay etc) mark the timing wheel on the TDC timing mark with a bit of chalk.
    and rev the engine as you shine the timing light at the harmonic balancer
    if its working properly the chalk will move (advance) as you rev and come back as the revs drop.

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDXDV0ZO280"]Checking Ignition Timing - YouTube[/ame]

    Same principle as the VDub ,
    If the Vacuum advance diaphragm was stuffed the mark would not move as the engine is revved

  4. #4
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    if its working properly the chalk will move (advance) as you rev and come back as the revs drop.
    You are confusing vacuum advance and centrifugal advance.

    Vacuum advance on a 3.9 is "ported" and only works with small throttle opening and high vacuum so show not very much when the engine is revved with no load.
    Just suck on the vac hose with the dizzy top off and you will see the baseplate move if it is OK.In any case it is usually enough that the hose will stick on your tongue..
    The centrifugal advance test is valid as this often siezes on an unmaintained dizzy. you can tel by just turning the rotor , it should turn about 5Mm and snap back. If not drop soime oil down the shaft and leave for a while.
    Regards Philip A

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys, I just did the "suck test" and I got no resistance at all with the engine not running and running.

  6. #6
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by knicko View Post
    Thanks guys, I just did the "suck test" and I got no resistance at all with the engine not running and running.
    did you suck on the right end, i mean pull the hose off the plenum and leave it attached to the dizzy.
    Running and engine will do make any difference to your sucking.
    If there is no resistance it is quite probable that the diaphram inside has split. Engine bay heat causes this
    as mentioned earlier about $60 -70 for a rec o unit from performance, they use heavier diaphram rubber.

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