Thread: Loctite - bewildering range - please explain.

This might answer some of your questions.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...tml#post705716

The different grades are for different uses of the threads. The display in the shop usually tells which one to use for 'normal use' meaning it won't work loose, up to ones for things that need never come apart again. Different brands do the same job, I have used a few brands and it usually lasts quite a few years once opened.

When using any thread locking compound, it will work better on clean threads. I use Prepsol or brake cleaner on both male and female threads to remove grease, oil or preservative and have not had one come loose in quite high stress applications if I did it properly in the first place.

Jeff

In general. the main difference is in the viscosity of the liquid. Follow the chart for your application and you wont go wrong.
Loctite thread locking products are "Anaerobic Cure" (removal of air to cure) So last a good time opened.
Cheers

loctite is anaerobic, so long as you dont keep shaking it up in the bottle when you're not using it, shake it before use, and dont squeeze the air out of the bottle before you cap it it'll last upto 5 years.

before use...

shake the bottle
uncap the bottle
turn the bottle upside down and tap it downwards gently to put the liquid at the top
pop the lift top if the bottle has one
squeeze out the desired amount onto the bolt(s)

when you're done
wipe the excess from the mouth of the bottle
ensure that the hole at the top of the nib is clear
tap the bottle on its base a few times and recap

I've got some you can use

As an interesting bit of trivia, I've read that the worst thing you could do is package a bottle of Loctite so it is completely sealed. The material chosen for the bottles allows gaseous exchange through itself and ensures that the anaerobic threadlocker is never able to set.

The permanent retaining compound is super stuff when used in the right situation, but 243 is a do all fastener lock grade that will allow disassembly. Some of the lower grades of threadlocker are essentially thread sealers that offer corrosion protection more than outright strength. Very handy for use on bikes where you have stainless fasteners in alloy for cosmetic reasons.

Over many years I've kept it simple and use:

- 243 for most fasteners. Used with a Nyloc nut, virtually nothing ever comes loose, and it also stops the thread from rusting up.
- 262 for studs. It's strong enough to (usually!) keep a stud from unwinding, but the stud can still be removed with a little help if need be.
- 603 for bearings that are just a little loose for some reason. I haven't used it for years but it can be handy when you're stuck. It only works on a very small clearance.

For gaskets, I use 515, which usually seals pretty well. I especially use it for hub seals and leave it to harden before putting the hub back on. I did have trouble with another sealer being too soft and an oil seal coming loose.

567 is a thread sealer and good for any thread that goes into a coolant gallery, and also for things like brass fittings where the thread does the sealing, not a washer or olive.

This list of Loctite products is almost all I've used for about fifteen years and it's a good little kit that covers what I do. I've also started using Hylomar Universal Blue for hub flanges and sump and gearbox gaskets as it comes apart easily and the clean-up isn't so critical when adding a bit more before reassembly. And, finally, I use Hylomar Silicone Sealant for any gaskets in a V8 that come into contact with coolant.

Gasketing Material From Loctite

look at the answers to the questions-to sort out the product needed.
i personally dont like the lipstick aplication products.

blue and black max is a silicone atv gap filler.
3bond or threebond is better product and is used by most asian manufactures.--ive not use the other products they product as loctite or permetex is easy to get.
Threebond