Thread: please help me 300 tdi first start up

If the pump timing is out it wont start
You can check the timing - remove the AC tensioner - this will reveal the pump gear inside the timing case

Now hand rotate the crank till you reach TDC as checked in the flywheel wading plug or if auto by removing the side coverplate on the flywheel housing

A 3/8 bolt should easily slide through the timing hole of the Injection Pump gear and into the pump

If the bolt does NOT slide in - you will need to remove the timing cover and remove belt to properly time the pump

I would not be turning the ignition key any further until you establish that timing is on

S

generally 1 or 2 teeth and it might go but wont be happy at you.

a few degrees on the pump is a lot of degrees on the crnakshaft.


crack the injector lines at the injectors and make sure that the IP is putting fuel out, it wouldnt be the first time all I've had to do to get a tdi to start was to rework the electrical connection on the IP solenoid.

Dave
Surely you would first check that the IP/cam/crank is not eleventy million teeth out - ready to park a valve in the piston first though????

I agree that the end game will prob be fuel feed BUT check the timing first if you pulled a belt off without checking / locking / checking the crank and IP

Of course to check cam timing well youll need the cover off!

S

hes already keyed it on the starter, any damage that was going to be done by valve meeting piston is either already done or isnt going to happen.

personally I always do a complete rotation of the engine by hand until the alignment dots I put on the belt line up with the marks on the wheels again when Im doing anything with cam/IP timing. Invited to an engine thats been done and not cranked where the owner is unsure of having it correct of I'll back the valves right off and turn by hand untill I can establish the alignment of at least the cam and crank.

With that done OR if the owner has already keyed it over I'll simply crack all 4 injectors off prime the lift pump and filter then key it over till I get fuel at the 4 injectors.


To ball park the IP timing I'll take the #4 line off of the IP, crack the injector on 1-3 then with the solenoid energised and the throttle locked in the full fuel position turn the engine slowly with a gloved finger over the #4 port (its easier to get to) when the crank comes up towards TDC (about 10-12 BTDC by eye) if I dont feel the IP try to inject then (or if its hugely early) then the IP is off.

Agreed on damage would already be done
Surely its easy to use the available timing slots to check IP is timed

Would take 5 minutes to establish that IP timing is wrong with no need for involving the fuel system - if timing is wrong you gotta pull the timing case?

Save the playing with fuel until you know that timing is on???

S

OK turns out my injector pump was almost a quarter of a turn out oops haha.
So I got a bolt put it threw the IP and timed it all up properly then when I go to start it she just cranks and blowing lots of diesel smoke but its not picking up and sounding like it wants to start. If its smoking out the shed it should of started shouldn't it

Are you sure you set TDC properly, (looked at valves on No1) so that you haven't got BDC, ie 180 degrees out ?
When I looked at my flywheel, when changing the clutch, there were two slots in the flywheel that the locking bolt could engage, one was 90 degrees from the other.
The point I'm making is that it is real easy to set the crankshaft/camshaft wrong without actually looking at the valves on No.1 as with both slots there are 4 options of which only one is correct.

I also found bleeding the air from the fuel system a real pain. It's makes life a lot easier to get the crankshaft/camshaft/fuel pump drive in the right position to get full stroke when priming. You can feel on the priming lever how much stroke you've got. I just kept flicking the starter (with the fuel stop solenoid disconnected) till I got full stroke.
About 300 pumps later I got fuel without bubbles from the top of the fuel filter, (after cleaning the sedimentor), 20 or so strokes later to get no bubbles with the banjo on the injector pump loosened. You'll pump plenty of smoke (unburnt diesel) with air in the fuel line(s).

Deano

Thanks mate for the reply. The crank/came are spot on its just the pump timing I had another look at the timing marks and with the pin in the IP the can/crank timing marks were about a tooth out and like u said about the fuel it COULD still have habit of air in it but I did pump it up and cracked the injector lines and cranked and fuel shot out real high. But for some reason my lift pump handle don't feel like its doing anything now. I tried cranking it that long that my battery went flat twice now fully charged ready for another crack at it tomorrow morning