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Thread: Radiator Soldering Repair

  1. #1
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Radiator Soldering Repair

    As usual up here, it's pretty hard to send anything away to be fixed, so now that I've found a small leak in my (newish!) Range Rover copper and brass radiator, would these two things (that I can actually buy at our little hardware shop) do the job?

    Blowtorches, Torches for disposable cartridge, 2294 Handyjet Torch

    Bernzomatic Plumbing Soldering Kit - Masters Online Shopping
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  2. #2
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    That should do the job. However that appears to be hard solder(?) You want soft solder - that is all that is used on radiators (the same as used for wiring). Lead-based is best.

    Just remember that:
    1. The radiator should be clean (and wire brushed)
    2. Use plenty of flux
    3. The radiator is THIN - be careful with the heat...

    I was part way through repairing a RRC rad using a large screwdriver heated in a campfire when a kind soul turned up with small blow torch like you have posted...

  3. #3
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Once again, thanks for your help. I did see it, or another solder in the shop, was labelled as "soft" and wondered what that was about. And I have a few spare radiators to practise on.

    And I never thought about carrying a little blowtorch in the bush but it would actually be quite handy!
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  4. #4
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    My radiators are now aluminium so no use to me but "back in the old days" I would always travel with an old soldering iron (big hunk of pointy copper on one end of a steel rod and a wooden handle at the other end) and propane gas torch. If you are not an old hand with soldering then good idea of yours to have a go on some old ones first.

    First sheet metal work project at school as I remember was to cut out a kitchen scoop, bend and solder the bits together, good practice for radiator work.

  5. #5
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    That's a good point. In all these years, I never have learned to solder. I might get some sheet metal and do that as well.
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  6. #6
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    There was an episode of 'Bush Mechanics' where they fixed a holed radiator by finding a battery and a hubcap (both within a few feet of where they'd broken down), tipping the battery acid over the radiator as flux, then breaking up the battery, melting the lead in the hubcap over a nice little mulga campfire, and pouring the lead over the leak. I thought this was standard practice around the Crossing!

  7. #7
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Yes, I saw that one. It would be worth trying, too! I wonder what you'd use instead of a hubcap these days?
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  8. #8
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    Wheel weights instead of hub caps...

    I carry a little Weller Portasol kit with blow torch/heat gun/soldering iron tips, solder and phosphoric flux, also good for loosening nuts and bolts, particularly nylocs on propshafts that have started rounding off.

  9. #9
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    I knocked a hole in my radiator while doing my timing belt.... I fixed it using the two part putty that you mash together.... 6 months later still works a treat definitely the easiest fix I have ever done!

  10. #10
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    Where's the hole ? If its in one of the tubes be very careful as they are extremely thin. If its leaking where the tubes join the tank the existing solder is probably fractured and easier to fix as the tanks are thicker and more forgiving. This usually happens in the corners.

    The most important criteria for a good solder job is a CLEAN surface. You can use electrical resin cored solder, try and avoid the lead free crap you get nowadays as its difficult to work with and not for the novice.

    Heat the CLEAN surface with a small flame but don't overheat it, the solder should flow freely but not so hot that it vaporizes the flux on contact. As you suggest practice on an old bit first.

    How's the new tyres going ?

    Deano

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