Thread: Is this how wheel bearings fail

dont grind it (yet)

if you sit it so the race is sitting on a nice bit of hard steel (I use a lump of railway line) and hit it with a cold chisel (you'll need to work your way around) it will come off easily and without the risk of cutting into the face of the stub.

Check the banjo fitting on the diff breather where it fits the axle.
Both of mine have rusted (only zinc passivated steel) and blocked internally so I swapped them for a brass swivel elbow. Mine just presssurised the rear diff causing leaks.

I had one set of wheel bearings go on mine years ago. Sat it in a deep puddle for a while, seals bearings etc. were an unknown quantity because I hadn't had it for long.
First symptom was the brake pedal travel suddenly increasing (as you corner the disc nudges the pads back into the caliper) caused the heart to skip a beat. Then one brake overheated coming out of the High Country (on one side it was braking and also trying to stand the wheel upright) then I noticed it tramlining as I joined the freeway.
I'd run around for some time but luckily it was a slow failure, the grease had turned to mud.

Replaced all wheelbearings & more importantly the seals. Realised some time later that the wheel bearings were an Indian brand so the rears have been swapped to Timken with the correct LR seals and the fronts will be done next.

Colin

Even once you get that inner bearing inner retainer ring off
You will still have to come to a solution on that sealing surface
It looks completely shagged
machine and speedi sleeve will be the cheaper option
new stub best practice

Steve

If it were me I'd be replacing that stub axle, and also closely checking out the front bearings
That kind of damage doesn't happen over night, suggesting a lack of regular maintenance.
I'm also with tombie on this, a well maintained and prepared vehicle with functioning seals will not draw water through the hubs, I guess everything working correctly is the key.

The seal looks wrong too. Well it's the wrong seal to have if there's no inner axel seal

Originally Posted by 460cixy

The seal looks wrong too. Well it's the wrong seal to have if there's no inner axel seal

When I replaced mine years ago they were an odd seal.
One lip to seal on the stub axle but no garter spring and another lip out the back as well.
The marks in the remains of the grease look like it may have been a similar seal, possibly original factory fitment ?

Colin

Was it a hard plasticky bit of rubbish ? RTC3511 is the seal you want and use an old drive flange to fit it as there ment to be installed about 4-5 mil in to the hub a drive flange will do this but check the depth as the lip on the flange will install it too far or machine an old flange down like I did so its perfect. Make sure the inner axel oil seal is well gone check the diff oil level and your sweet.

A bit of an update on this, i replaced all 4 wheel bearings myself, but stuffed up the preload. I torqued them up too tight, probably 90 degrees more than the 10 lb ft thats reccommended. I had done about 300ks before i realised and retorqued them properly.
The noise i had in the first place, a constant rumbling more noticeable above 60 ks, is still there but is quieter than it was.
Could it be possible that the diff bearings are on the way out or have i knackered the wheel bearings i just put in?
I'm looking for other things to try before i give it to MR Automotive to have a look at.
Any advice would be welcome,
Cheers,
Joe