Thread: Gearbox Transfer Case Rebuild

Depends on how far you want to go - given that you're giving the engine a medium re-build, then it stands to reason to do the same to the GB & TC - it takes a fair bit of press work to do a total rebuild.

You can do front and rear seals and the rear main/layshaft bearings without upsetting the rest of the gearbox. Also, I found that a new oil pump ($80) has given my R380 a new lease on life. Further, a set of spider gear washers and new input /output/intermediate bearings ( and seals ) does wonders with the LT230.

I did all this stuff without a press - the only hard part was removing the collar from the GB output shaft.

I think I may just get the bearing and seal kit and work from there if I find anything else when out. I do have a 12 tonne press and am going to get a decent set of bearing pullers for Fathers day.
I may not even need to do the head gasket, but as I have had 2 occasions where the coolant level has dropped by 500ml for no real reason, may replace it and check the dowels as I do not know if it still has the plastic ones.
At 180,000kms probably ready for a clutch replacement anyway.
Going to put a larger sump pan on the LT230 as well.

Craig, it is a safe bet that A) your head gasket is leaking, and there are plastic dowels in there, unless somebody has already replaced them with steel.
With The transmission, I would also look at replacing the 5th gear support bearings etc it is a very easy job just remove the extension housing and there they are
( Langy already mentions this, above) but I would stop short of synchros and a full strip down eetc as you will need to do some careful measuring and may require selectable shim sets etc etc . It is all available from ashcrofts, but is a lot more work for you. If the shifting is a little baulky, but not crunching as such, then this is almost as they were from new, you could do all that work and it will STILL feel like that
And my advice if you are going to do the clutch, stick with a genuine flywheel and clutch kit, (Not bought from LR of course :0 )

JC

Craig
Simple way to check that coolant loss.
Mine was the same,I smelt it.
Grab a 700ml plastic flavoured milk container and secure it to the overflow outlet on the expension tank.
Mine was only blowing small amounts but it was out of the ordinary coolant usage,it was always in the catch bottle.
I had no need to get any machining done as the problem was sorted before it was an issue.
Andrew

Craig, I presume that you'll either replace the clutch fork with a reinforced one, or weld a patch onto your fork to ensure that the slave cyl rod won't push through it (a common fault - one sometimes wonders what the LR engineers think about when 'upgrading' models).

Originally Posted by langy

Also, I found that a new oil pump ($80) has given my R380 a new lease on life.

Langy, did you replace the standard pump fit to the extension housing or did you fit an after-market external pump? If an external pump, I'd be keen to learn about it - can you provide product info?

Thanks.

A TD5 had an upgraded cast fork not the cheap tin that the 300TDI had maybe they were thinking

Originally Posted by Jode

Craig, I presume that you'll either replace the clutch fork with a reinforced one, or weld a patch onto your fork to ensure that the slave cyl rod won't push through it (a common fault - one sometimes wonders what the LR engineers think about when 'upgrading' models).

For Mr J - it was a replacement for the standard internal shaft driven device in the extension housing. (Also fitted a new oil feed ring). And, for both Mr J and Mr E -



This is the simple add on to prevent pivot 'push through' for the 300tdi.