Reply With QuoteNot sure on material but I thought annealing is a process to soften not harden. That's why you anneal copper washers to soften them up so you can re use them and they will seal.
ChatterBox
SubscriberYeah cheese I know.
I'm planning on using an old 10-spline front axle shaft that I have lying around (pretty sure that it was originally in my 1988 RR) to replace the crossfeed screw in a lathe. I have to cut a 1" 5tpi LH square thread on it, plus turn a couple of sections down to run in bushes.
Before I start, I am getting a friend who makes knives to anneal it in his heat-treating oven, then I want to harden it again when finished. My friend says it would be helpful to know what the material is so he can use the correct process to anneal and harden it.
Anyone know exactly what the material is?
Last edited by POD; 30th September 2012 at 03:16 PM. Reason: .
Wizard
Not sure on material but I thought annealing is a process to soften not harden. That's why you anneal copper washers to soften them up so you can re use them and they will seal.
YarnMaster
This may be of no use to you; however; what about starting with a clean slate using a steel with a known composition? EN26 might be ideal, especially if you will be thread cutting.
Check out this; or give them a ring High Tensile Steels | Interlloy
Cheers Charlie
AT REST
I did a bit of hardness testing on axles (not LR) when I went to tech college, I was cutting and shutting axles for a dune buggy. From memory they are induction heated and hardened by a special process that is difficult to replicate in a non-factory situation, best of luck if you get good results.
TopicToaster
I think he means to anneal to cut then re harden post work.
AT REST
Indeed, but if the axle hardens through it will just snap under stress. Case hardening a suitable mild steel may be better.Originally Posted by clubagreenie
Swaggie
Mild steel itself won't heat-treat, you will need to use something with a higher carbon content. There are processes which you can use to caseharden mild steel but you are much better off not pursuing that Avenue. I would have looked to use material such as bright steel, it is very available and inexpensive, and will heat-treat well.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
ChatterBox
SubscriberThe reason for using the axle shaft is essentially because I've got it sitting around and it is close to the correct diameter to start with, i.e. there's enough there to turn it down to an accurate 1" for the major diameter of the screw without removal of a lot of material. Buying a length of stock to do the job is certainly an option but I hate spending money when I've got something to hand that will do the job. Would seem pointless to me to buy high-carbon steel shaft with one hand whilst sending high-carbon steel axle shafts to the scrap man with the other.
The crossfeed screw is not highly stressed, it provides linear movement of the cross slide of the lathe and runs in a bronze nut (that I also have to renew). Yes, the plan is to anneal it prior to cutting the thread, then harden it prior to installation for increased longevity.
I have case-hardened mild steel before, no desire to do so again but also no real need to do so here. If I can't specifically identify the material, my friend will use some generic process to temper it, it is really not critical, just easier to maintain the machine if the female, bronze thread needs renewing every few years but the male thread lasts a few decades.
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