Thread: I would have been happy if my diagnosis was correct, but it need further investigatio

Hi ref the pump gears the drill hole or dimple is there to tell you which way up the gears go, dimple must be up, do not try to use it as a timing mark. Your first photo the outer ring gear is correct the inner is upside down!! sure it was this way when installed if it was then that is the problem!!!.
Ref the drain back hole, it is either at 18.00 hrs early boxes, or 15.00 hrs later boxes (looking from the front). Its approx 6mm hole and must match with the same size hole in the front of the auto box. Pump housings are not usually damaged just the gears.
When removing the pump housing, stand the gearbox on its tail, hold the input shaft down while removing the bell housing, hold the input (smaller shaft) down while removing the pump housing. If you just lift the pump housing the 'A' clutch center will also come out and can be a pig to re-install, unless your really lucky. Stick the torrington in place with vaseline before re-install of the pump housing, if it moves out of position it will stuff the box. Regards Ian Ashcroft

The reason you cant use the dimples as timing marks is because the gearset is a "walking gearset" and unlike timing an engine if you do 2 revolutions they wont be lined up. (do lots more and they will)

However

Telling appy mechanics that they are timing marks much like timing marks on an engine and watching them go nuts as they herring sandwich it (a guide reference) or deflating them with "well looky thar, ya learnin" when they come over angry after they work it out for themselves

Originally Posted by steveG

No disrespect to the real mechanics out there, but lots intended for the part swapper ones.

Steve

That sounds much better to me....



When you do the install work, if your using any kind of sealants or loctites minimum usage is the key and endevour to position the loctite or sealants in such a way that as they extrude to where you can clean it up. Leave the box uninstalled, and with a cover off (TC out and Sump off) well after the "full cure" time of the sealants. This minimises the chances of breakaway sealant chunks causing problems later.

Originally Posted by Ian Ashcroft

. If you just lift the pump housing the 'A' clutch center will also come out and can be a pig to re-install, unless your really lucky. Stick the torrington in place with vaseline before re-install of the pump housing, if it moves out of position it will stuff the box. Regards Ian Ashcroft

Sorry Ian, excuse me for being stupid, but what is the "A" clutch centre?
When I removed I lifted the pump from the intermediate plate, nothing came out that I could see,
Rave doesn't mention it by any warnings
Microcat shows these components. after "component 15" a Thrust washer and it is followed by torrington race not shown in diagram
regards, Mario

Hi you will notice on the diagram part #16 does not have the input shaft(smaller shaft) present!! because it should be in the box, but as the input shaft has oil seal rings fitted it sometimes sticks in the outer shaft so when you lift item 16 the whole lot, including the 'A' clutch center, comes out and this is to be avoided. So with the box vertical hold down the smaller of the shafts whilst lifting item16. Not the end of the world ,just trying to make the job easier for you. Regards Ian Ashcroft