Thread: DIY Rear storage.

Marine ply is over the top and pretty expensive - construction ply will be fine.
For my D1 I made a sort of box structure out of square aluminium tube and knock together plastic corners, with some 12mm construction ply on top. Light and strong and as far as I know still going strong with the new owner.

Different fixing options depending on which vehicle you have.

Steve.

Check out this old thread http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...10-set-up.html
Cheers
Mark

I've just started putting together some ply wood storage space in the back of my D1 actually. I'm the same - don't want draws, but a place to put a fridge and other camping equipment etc.

So far we've put a false floor in. Just high enough to slide a fold up table and shovel underneath. Next will be a shelf about 50cms high so a fridge can go in the left side and other stuff on the right, then whatever else on top all the way across.

I'll take some pics of what we've done so far and keep you updated. We bought 15mm ply wood because we want to be able to put a somewhat decent weight on the shelf and we're also using the ply wood as side walls.

In terms of securing to the floor, so far ours isn't going to be secured at all. We've made the base/false floor a snug fit on all sides so it can't move.

My current unfinished one


One I made for my last cruiser


This was a basic ply setup I made for my last TD5 that housed a battery in the right side of it, where the 3rd row seat used to be. Allhonesty I liked this the best. Simple and very useable.


This was a drop down cavity thingy sort of what your talking of doing.Not a disco was on my trol.



Similar drop down I had on my pajero


Cavity one I made for my cruiser I had years ago


Yes Ive had a few fourbies. Posted this DM in case you can get any any ideas from them

Steve

Cheers for that Sharkee, it was actually browsing your build that prompted me to do it
That and the uneven distribution of weight causing severe nose diving under hard brakes that puts the back out like driving on ice
I'm in the process of drawing up some plans, I'll whack them up later.
Is there any point matching the forward face to the angle of the rear seats, or is there not enough usable space to create a triangle type forward compartment?
Cheers
Muppet

Here is one I recently knocked up using construction ply, marine carpet and some Ktab boxes, which are awesome with their flat sides. I prefer these to drawers as you can take them out and to the camp site, which may not always be near the vehicle, and they are a lot simpler to put together than drawer systems. They slide very well on ply.




Here is another bigger one I made with the cubelok joiners and aluminium tube, from Bunnings, for a Patrol I had:

I normally would do the back almost touching the seat all the way and have storage cavities in behind for items needed but seldom used and access them by folding the seat down or a water tank in behind?. I'm not sure on the angle on the disco seat as this one is almost straight on the back and I heavilly modified it to suit me as it was built by someone else and I got it from a LROCV member.I store things I dont use much in behind there. If I made it from scratch, I would contour it to the seat back. A way of doing this I've found is get your ply you intend to use on the sides and take a bit of a guess at the angle and try it in and just trim it till you get it where you want it x 2. Note: left and right are slightly different I found so make a R & L one. Keep in mind though if you go the full width of your cargo area ie: between the bins you will have to trim a little out of the bottom of the side/rear (if that makes sense) to allow for your wheel arches.

Steve