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Thread: Another 300 tdi overheat!

  1. #31
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    Righto, so I took the head off a few days ago and it wasn't pretty!

    Although it wasn't seized no. 3 piston has completely melted and chunks of it were stuck at the top of the cylinder plus material has adhered to the cylinder wall. Once I have access to a computer (not just my phone) I will post the pics. So it seems to me a full rebuild is in order and by that I mean cylinders bored, new pistons, rings, big-end and main bearings, as well as a new head obviously! Is it likely that I will need the crankshaft ground? Is there any other machining that I would need to do?

    The other element in the equation, when I was removing the turbo, I disconnected the oil lines, not only did very little oil come out but some water came out too! Then when I tried to move the impeller it was stuck, after a while I got it to move (without using significant force) and then it spun freely. Would it be stuffed? Or have I got lucky (relatively speaking!)?

    Thanks heaps, Matt

  2. #32
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    the best way forward is to yank the engine,
    Put it on a stand and strip it
    Then take the bare block, crank and cam to a competant engine workshop (AULRO can guide you)
    And get a pro to mic the pots and journals and check the deck for flat
    Onnce you come up with a plan (OS pistons or re sleeve) can then move forward
    Do you have a copy of the 300tdi overhaul manual? If not get it.
    Its not rocket science be meticulous and ask questions when stuck.

    Wrt to the turbo, id be inclined to clean it, flush the oil gallery with clean lube whilst it is layed up and then run with it and see?

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  3. #33
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    The cheapest way to recovery

    Hi Matt

    That engine block might be best be made into a coffee table stand now.
    Have a look around for a pranged 300TDi discovery wreck and haggle the price down.

    To give you the best chance of buying a good one, get a engine out of a wreck, that means it was running before the car was written off, don't buy one from a car that has no twisted bits before it was pulled apart.
    .
    Last edited by wrinklearthur; 1st January 2013 at 07:57 AM. Reason: added some

  4. #34
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    turbo lives

    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    Wrt to the turbo, id be inclined to clean it, flush the oil gallery with clean lube whilst it is layed up and then run with it and see?
    I agree with Steve, give that turbo a try first.

    To test it, gently wiggle with your fingers the turbo shaft on the end, from side to side and up and down there should be a very slight amount of equal movement in both directions, the turbo shaft spins on a film of oil in its bearings.
    Then try for end float, there should not be any end float.
    .

  5. #35
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    arthur,
    It is true that you could pick up a wreck for cheap
    Once you remove the heart thou - who would bolt it straight in without pulling the head and sump to eye ball the bits that count, then rplace ancillaries as they are unknown and while its on the stand easy to change. ? ? So on and so forth.

    One other thing for OP once you have the engine sorted.

    New/ recore radiator, new hoses, water pump and fit coolant level and true coolant temperature monitor

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  6. #36
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    Thanks all, yeah as rover says I am more keen to recon this block than go for a second hand unit at least I know what the problems are and I already have it half stripped anyway. Plus once done I will be good for another 10 years at least!

    Once I have the block stripped I will be giving it to a machinist for bore mic-ing but I have confidence in my own journal mic-ing ability. I have a quote for $195 to machine the bores from mendham engineering in brissy. Does anyone have experience with them? 195 seems extremely reasonable to me.....

    Oh yeah, I'm working from the Haynes manual... Seems pretty comprehensive to me. I will defo be replacing g hoses etc but was hoping to get away with giving the rad a good flushing once it is off as it was functioning perfectly before all of this.
    Last edited by Matplat; 1st January 2013 at 09:02 AM. Reason: Added more

  7. #37
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    Devils

    Quote Originally Posted by Matplat View Post
    Thanks all, yeah as rover says I am more keen to recon this block than go for a second hand unit at least I know what the problems are and I already have it half stripped anyway. Plus once done I will be good for another 10 years at least!
    Better the devil you know than the Devil you don't, I suppose!

    but was hoping to get away with giving the rad a good flushing once it is off as it was functioning perfectly before all of this.
    That's the problem, if you look down through the air bleed plug hole in the top of the tank with a light, you can see a baffle halfway down inside the tank and you will also see a 12 mm hole in that baffle.
    Unless that hole is closed up while back flushing, the bulk of the water passes though it and very little pressure is presented to the tubes in the core.
    Look up Tropical Mod on this forum, as it explains this.

    See if you can get back to JC to tell you a bit more about boring out the block and the chances of porosity.
    .

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrinklearthur View Post
    [snip]

    See if you can get back to JC to tell you a bit more about boring out the block and the chances of porosity.
    .
    That's where I like sleeves.

    It really scares me when I read that MD in the UK offered 2.8 slugs (and rods/crank) for the 300Tdi when you hear the stories of porosity and core shift some of these blocks exhibit.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    That's where I like sleeves.

    It really scares me when I read that MD in the UK offered 2.8 slugs (and rods/crank) for the 300Tdi when you hear the stories of porosity and core shift some of these blocks exhibit.
    Rick, do you know what oversize pistons the 2.8 kit is supplied with, I thought that the 2.8 L was gained by stroking. I have emailed the supplier of these kits but have had no reply, not a good sign in my book, Regards Frank.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    That's where I like sleeves. ---- for the 300Tdi when you hear the stories of porosity and core shift some of these blocks exhibit.
    These problems are common to engines that have no sleeves, take the Ford 4000 Tractor engines for instance, they are notorious for going porous after 5000 hours and they are fixed by using the same sleeving method.


    Off topic
    Reverse of the song, it's a long way to the bottom with all those smiles in row's down the right hand side of the page, can I gather them all up and shove them back in a box?
    .

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