Thread: Another 300 tdi overheat!

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

These problems are common to engines that have no sleeves, take the Ford 4000 Tractor engines for instance, they are notorious for going porous after 5000 hours and they are fixed by using the same sleeving method.


Off topic
Reverse of the song, it's a long way to the bottom with all those smiles in row's down the right hand side of the page, can I gather them all up and shove them back in a box?
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The couple of Formula Ford engines I built years ago I had sleeved rather than run OS pistons, it just made a nicer, more powerful engine and I agree, the smilies are a pain on the laptop, I can cope on the office desktop.

Hi there mate sorry to hear about your woes in the hose department.If you do as the others have suggested then fill her up run for about 20 minutes with the cap off to bleed the system also loosen the bleed screw on your radiator and tighten up she should run fairly well.I had the expansion tank burst on my 300 disco just as we were going over the range to stanthorpe,just got to the top and off she went covering my fartherinlaws brand new beemer who was right behind me with tectalloy not a happy camper was he or me.The temp gauge went through the roof.Spent about 45 minutes running back and forth to the dribble of a tap,ran her all over stanthorpe topping up every time we stopped and you know after changing the expansion tank and fitting new hoses I havent had a problem with it since and that was 3-4 years ago.I just hpoe that your turns out as mine did.
Regards
Tony

mat get your hands on a copy of the factory 300tdi overhaul manual
It will save your bacon

JC will know better but 40 thou oversize pistons are available but no bigger?
My engine guy was not keen to bore out to the Md2.8 conversion size but happily match bored to a set of 40thou pistons on my dusted engine

Your qouted price seems good maybe ensure they do good work and go for it. My guy didnt want to bore until he had the pistons so he could match them. In the end the 4 german pistons were identical.
My crank was machined for 10 thou undersize slips on the conrod journals, mains just linished. Cam linished.
Steve

and I'll reiterate what Steve has suggested re the factory service/overhaul manual.

Get it on CD and you can print out the pages and trash them with greasy hands and fingers.
It's much more comprehensive than any aftermarket manual.
Just remember that a couple of things like the timing belt tension has since been revised and the RAVE CD includes TSB's like that in it.

Steve, wasn't it the case that the factory piston OS goes up to .020", but Kolbenschmidt (the factory supplier) offer up to .040" ones too ?

Yeah I have seen 20 thou and 40 thou os pistons on paddocks website, I was going to get the block machined first to see how far they have to go and then get whichever piston suits....

Do you get your journals linished in a similar fashion to honing the bores?

Thanks all for your help, eventually she will rise again!

my engine guy mic ed the block, crank and cam and made a plan that worked?
Rick that brande 40 thou sound familar, the engine shop ordered them in for about what i could get them from OS?

I also agree with rick, print out the manual, put it in a folder with no binding, can flick it page by page and not worry about grime etc

The other fault in the manual is it talks of washers for the piston oil squirter retain bolts. There are none on the 300 but there are on the earlier 200.

S

Originally Posted by rick130

and I'll reiterate what Steve has suggested re the factory service/overhaul manual.

Get it on CD and you can print out the pages and trash them with greasy hands and fingers.
It's much more comprehensive than any aftermarket manual.
Just remember that a couple of things like the timing belt tension has since been revised and the RAVE CD includes TSB's like that in it.

X2

The factory 300 Tdi overhaul manual is readily available on line (just Google it) and is very comprehensive. It can be a bit pedantic though and in typical LR form it relies on lots of bull**** special tools but apart from this is really pretty good.
Just don't let your common sense be overridden by LR engineers. A good example is 'gearbox removal' in the maintenance manual. Taking the selector housing off the top of the gearbox greatly simplifies the job but the LR engineers didn't think of this.

BTW what are the revised cam belt tensions ? 12Nm used and 15 Nm new in my manual.


Deano

11Nm for a new belt.