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Thread: EGR Bolt Stripped

  1. 3rd December 2012, 08:27 PM #1
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    Ralph1Malph
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    EGR Bolt Stripped


    I thought that I'd have a relaxing night in the garage removing the EGR valve and fitting silicon intercooler hoses to my D2.

    Well, all went well until the very last (bottom) 5 mm allen key bolt on the exhaust manifold.

    The good news is, it didn't break, but the head has stripped!
    So, I am thinking I could grind down a 5.5mm or 6mm allen key but there isn't much room to tap in in.
    Or I could wait until the weekend and spot weld the allen key into the bolt head.

    The latest option I thought might work is to cut the EGR pipe away from the flange and tap the flange to crack the bolt. I can get access to the top half of the flange.

    Ideas?

    Ralph
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  2. 3rd December 2012, 08:31 PM #2
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    Hi Ralph. Considering you are removing the EGR then I would cut off the pipe and as much peripherals to allow access to the errant Hex bolt. Use a small cold chisel to tap it round you may find it will be sufficient. i agree you only usually get one chance with those bolts

    JC
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  3. 3rd December 2012, 08:41 PM #3
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    drive in a torqz socket bit after heating the manifold area up with a hot spanner.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  4. 3rd December 2012, 08:41 PM #4
    Bigbjorn
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    Now you know why anti-seize should have been used.
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  5. 3rd December 2012, 08:45 PM #5
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    drive in a torqz socket bit after heating the manifold area up with a hot spanner.
    ^^^ Agree... Works bloody well
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  6. 3rd December 2012, 08:49 PM #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    ^^^ Agree... Works bloody well
    Driving in a torx bit is a bit hard on the lower bolt, there just isn't room to swing anything. I've tried ( Be very careful of things like the radiator plastic fittings etc) . Only way to try is to use a 4lb mallet so you don't need much swing 'force'.


    JC
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  7. 3rd December 2012, 09:00 PM #7
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    keh?

    3/8th (4 inch from memroy) drive extension onto an impact socket with the torqz bit in the end with it heated up if you pick the right size (t27,30or35 i cant remember) it goes in easy.

    I usually use a small ballpein
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  8. 3rd December 2012, 09:01 PM #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    keh?

    3/8th (4 inch from memroy) drive extension onto an impact socket with the torqz bit in the end with it heated up if you pick the right size (t27,30or35 i cant remember) it goes in easy.

    I usually use a small ballpein
    Lower bolt is difficult to get a straight hit.

    JC
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  9. 3rd December 2012, 10:06 PM #9
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    Fortune favours the brave
    I did soak both bolts liberally in WD40 and machine oil over the last few days and the top one actually cracked very easily and I was able to unscrew it by hand for a fair amount of thread.
    Inspecting the thread revealed no rust and more importantly, no sign of molecular bonding so I took a punt........ grabbed a small bar and wedged it under the flange, over the top of the AC compressor. A couple of pretty light taps and the flange moved. I was then able to use the EGR valve and pipe as a fulcrum to rotate it back and forth and hey presto, enough purchase with the allen key to unscrew it.

    Chuffed

    This left me thinkin', why are they allen head bolts? Looks to be enough room for normal bolts. I gotta replace 'em so I ask why?

    BTW, the intake manifold was more than sooty, the inside was coated in carbon sludge! I'd luv to remove it but another day.
    This mod can't hurt I reckon.

    Tomorrow night continue to reassemble.

    Cheers
    Ralph
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  10. 4th December 2012, 06:51 PM #10
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    glad i found this thread, i was thinking i was going to have to take off the exhaust manifold... as my bottom bolt stripped too. part of the problem being that there is part of the head that stops you getting at it straight with a thick socket arm

    will try rotating the pipe flange to crack it first, with the torx idea as well
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