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Thread: Rangie classic cuts out on left hand turns

  1. #1
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    Rangie classic cuts out on left hand turns

    My Range Rover classic has developed a disturbing new problem.

    After left hand turns the engine loses power then comes good again.
    It appears that the longer the turn the longer the power loss.
    The tacho doesn't drop and no warning lights come on so I suspect it is a fuel issue rather than an ignition issue.
    I have filled the fuel tank to the top (long ranger 130 litre tank - new) and the problem remains so I don't think it is a fuel pickup issue.

    The fuel pump I am running is an external high pressure pump as fitted to VL 6 cylinder commodores. It is mounted sideways behind the right rear wheel and draws fuel through a filter (which is new).

    I have a suspicion that the pump is failing internally and when going around left hand corners the pump internals are moving and jamming, only coming good when the lateral load is removed.
    I have a brand new pump which I will fit and then test drive the vehicle. I will tell the results once this is done.

    If anyone has any other ideas, feel free to share as I am supposed to leave Brisbane tomorrow to head back to Adelaide.

  2. #2
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    I would be having a thorough look at the pump wiring. A bit of lateral force may be flexing the chassis/body mounts in this area straining the cables, connectors or earth point. Connect a light bulb across the pump terminals if you can and bring the light inside where you can monitor it.

  3. #3
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    There is a fair bit of slack in the wiring and I had a good wiggle / pull on the pump and wiring with the engine idling. It didn't make any difference.

  4. #4
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    I dived under the back and had a good look around. What I found was the flexible fuel hose from the tank to the filter had dropped between the chassis and the tank.
    This was just enough to pinch the hose nearly shut. When going around left hand corners there must have been enough movement between the tank and the chassis to squash the hose completely shut, then it could reopen when I straightened up.
    I pushed the hose up out of the gap and went for a drive - problem solved. I will make a more permanent repair when I get home.

  5. #5
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    Is the pump sucking air due to a loose hose clamp or broken pickup? I assume you don't have a low pressure lift pump inside the tank. The air bubbles would take a short while to clear causing a bit of misfiring.

    I actually had a customer in last month with fuel delivery problems (carby, with a Facet pump) and the chinese made plastic Z15 filter he had on the pump inlet hose had a deformed inlet nipple, causing an air leak under conditions of slight vacuum, e.g. uphill. I personally am not fond of filters on the inlet side of EFI pumps, they cause too much restriction and possible cavitation or aeration. If you must have a filter get a metal bodied large flow EFI filter, e.g Z200.

    BTW the tacho has no connection to the ignition, it is alternator driven. Your ignition could still be faulty somewhere. It would however cut in and out rather sharply. Also check the wire to the ECU, the white wire with a black stripe connects from the negative side of the coil to tell the ECU the engine is turning.

    Edit: Hah, I see it was the inlet to the pump!

    Cheers

  6. #6
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    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    Don't laugh............. it could be the ignition switch.

    When mine was on the way out there were all sorts of weird probs including one similar to yours, even the ambient temp came into the 'equation' at times.

    DL

    Edit.............. see you've solved it. And another solution in the RRC world is born!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    Don't laugh............. it could be the ignition switch.

    When mine was on the way out there were all sorts of weird probs including one similar to yours, even the ambient temp came into the 'equation' at times.

    DL

    Edit.............. see you've solved it. And another solution in the RRC world is born!
    I was going to mention ignition switch as well, some clown had fitted a non original switch in my 85 rrc and the wires were bare, caused similar wierd issues untill one day it caught fire but luckily only melted a short length of the brown main power loom.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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  8. #8
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    Had the same problem which was caused by the ignition barrel on my 86 Rangie

    The plug on the back of the ignition barrell kept falling off and this would make it cut out on certain bumps and turns. I ended up zip tying it back on and it was fine after that.
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  9. #9
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    [QUOTE=bee utey;1827853]. If you must have a filter get a metal bodied large flow EFI filter, e.g Z200.

    /QUOTE]


    I run the standard filter for an EFI 3.5 Rangie. I don't recall the part number but it is about twice the diameter of a Z200.

  10. #10
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    I had the same problem on one of my S3's,the dizy plate that held the points was worn out and would close the points around left corners. Pat

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