Reply With QuoteIf the nuts don't affect the light adjustments try using Locktite 243
on the threads and you will you will need to heat it up with a heat gun to undo them (around 70 deg c).
It may not stop them but it will slow them down.
Hi guys. I'm just wondering if anyone could give me some ideas as to how to thief proof my driving lights? I had a pair of Genesis 210's stolen last year. They were secured using the usual lock nuts you can get from Lightforce, sidewinder, etc.
The thief simply twisted the lights off.
The Genesis mounting bracket comes with two smaller holes either side of the main bolt hole to stop the bracket from twisting. The only problem is that the mount on the ARB bar is too narrow, and the bolt holes of the bracket line up directly with the edge of the bull bar mount (hope that makes sense).
I have heard of people using 'roll pins' before. I have no experience with using them and I'd have no idea how to go about it. Other options include 'shear nuts'
Or tamper proof nuts
Any other suggestions or some info on how to use the roll pins would be greatly appreciated. Im going to make sure I do my best to make sure the scumbags who stole lights the first time are going to have a hell of a job doing it again!
Damo
Fossicker
If the nuts don't affect the light adjustments try using Locktite 243
on the threads and you will you will need to heat it up with a heat gun to undo them (around 70 deg c).
It may not stop them but it will slow them down.
ForumSage
you need a Trunk Monkey
Wizard
Do the opposite and make them easy to remove!
I'm going through a stage where I want all my 'touring' accessories to be quickly removed (if you know how). I want to put a quick connect/disconnect LED light bar on the bull bar, with a waterproof socket on the back of the bar somewhere. If you can take it off and put in on in seconds then you can just put it on when you need it or choose to take it off when leaving the car in a dodge spot.
My plan is to have a deefer that looks armed to the teeth when off on tour but strips back easily to a non-offensive stock look for any day to day use.
ForumSage
Originally Posted by damo_s
You drill the right size hole through the thread of the light below where the nut will sit when tight. Once the lights are on and adjusted correctly you bash a roll pin through your hole. This will stop the nuts from coming undone without using a hammer and punch to remove the roll pin first.
Swaggie
Great idea Jon!
One of my Puma Defender customers (Also a Member here) has had 3 lots of side windows smashed, a fridge stolen, driving lamps and the winch rope taken all from out in front of his inner city house.
Pondlife
He is about to move anyway, so here's hoping the new suburb is a bit more conducive to Accessorised LR ownership
JC
TopicToaster
Tasmanian crime waveGreat idea Jon!
One of my Puma Defender customers (Also a Member here) has had 3 lots of side windows smashed, a fridge stolen, driving lamps and the winch rope taken all from out in front of his inner city house.
Pondlife
He is about to move anyway, so here's hoping the new suburb is a bit more conducive to Accessorised LR ownership
JC
Master
SubscriberGreat idea Jon!
One of my Puma Defender customers (Also a Member here) has had 3 lots of side windows smashed, a fridge stolen, driving lamps and the winch rope taken all from out in front of his inner city house.
Pondlife
He is about to move anyway, so here's hoping the new suburb is a bit more conducive to Accessorised LR ownership
JC
And that inner city suburb, which we will now avoid, would be???????
Simon
95 Defender HCPU 130
Wizard
OK so you need your power lights on there all the time... why not weld them on!?
Swaggie
Hi Simon!
Don't worry, if you look for places around north, south or east hobart you won't be anywhere near that place....
JC
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