Thread: Etching primer

yep

i get mine from the local autobahn or the local aero parts shop.

the one from the aero parts is usually dearer but i find it way better i have to say.

White Knight & Wattyl supply etch primer in rattle cans.
I've found that Masters are the best price (just under $10 per can)


Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

White Knight & Wattyl supply etch primer in rattle cans.
I've found that Masters are the best price (just under $10 per can)


Colin

Solver paints do aluminium etch primer for about the same price.

What ever you use I hope you have better luck than me

I am VERY anal about prep. Sanding, cleaning and then wax and grease remover or acetone.

I just did some shocks, so not even aluminium. Sanded, cleaned, acetone. Then K&H etch primer, followed directions. After final etch coat it was left to dry for about a week. Started the top coat with K&H engine enamel did the first coat. That was left for atleast a week. I then gave it a lite rub down with 600g sandpaper and then went to clean with acetone for next coat........

Both top coat and etch primmer rubbed right off, back to bare metal/paint

I can only think that I applied too much in one go, and even though left for a long time, it never cured....touch dry, definietly, cured NO.

I am now trying again. My coats will be VERY thin and given 2 days to dry. So it will take me atleast 6 days to do the etch then 2 weeks to do the top coat.

I have a horrible time with paint I dont think the humidity here on the Gold Coast helps either........

Etch primer should be used on new unsanded bare metal only, I used epoxy primer.
Cleaning new paint with acetone! Only use W&G remover.
See link. Ask questions very helpful when I repainted the falcon.
Regards

when to use self etching primer - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board

Ok, so who here is a chemist? I would really like to know the difference between Acetone and W&G remover (100% hydrocarbon)

While I have had issues before, I have also had good succsess. Remember that most of those guys would not have been talking spray/rattle cans, but quality paint to apply with a proper spray gun. Yes there will be similarites, but you dont have the range of quality in a spray can.

Any decent painted surface, that has cured properly will NOT simply whipe off with a rag and acetone.

btw, they were only referring to steel. The OP was talking about aluminium. Any non-freous metal needs etch primer. Zinc coated, Galvanised steel, Aluminium etc. Giving them a light sand and thorough clean is only going to be of benefit IMO.

I am happy to be proven wrong, but how is sanding a aready painted surface, back to bare metal in some areas, going to cause a failure with etch primer?

Originally Posted by uninformed

Ok, so who here is a chemist? I would really like to know the difference between Acetone and W&G remover (100% hydrocarbon)

While I have had issues before, I have also had good succsess. Remember that most of those guys would not have been talking spray/rattle cans, but quality paint to apply with a proper spray gun. Yes there will be similarites, but you dont have the range of quality in a spray can.

Any decent painted surface, that has cured properly will NOT simply whipe off with a rag and acetone.

btw, they were only referring to steel. The OP was talking about aluminium. Any non-freous metal needs etch primer. Zinc coated, Galvanised steel, Aluminium etc. Giving them a light sand and thorough clean is only going to be of benefit IMO.

I am happy to be proven wrong, but how is sanding a aready painted surface, back to bare metal in some areas, going to cause a failure with etch primer?

I'm not a chemist but wax & grease remover seems to be petrol based.
Septone is white spirit (dry cleaning chemical used instead of Turps in the UK) & petroleum

http://www.septone.com.au/msds/ASWG1.htm

Are you sure acetone isn't a solvent for the paint you're using, it makes a mess of my nail varnish....

I'm etch priming bare steel, sanding lightly & painting with epoxy from a rattle can the same day. Dry in a day or two (depending on the temperature).

White Spirit details here http://www.recochem.com.au/index.php..._white_spirits



Colin

Ive got all "diggers" brand. W&G remover, says on the side being 100% hydrocarbon. Acteone just says 100% acetone haha. BTW, when i first started to rub the painted shock with acetone, I thought "oh no, wrong stuff" switched rags and started on another spot with W&G remover...same result. Paint simply had not cured properly IMO

While painting all that in one day may work for you, I have a couple of questions. How long are you letting the etch dry? It states on my can to coat, second coat within 5 mins, additional coats within the hr or after 24 hrs. Complelely dry in 24hrs. And how many eypoxy coats are you applying over that in one day.

Humidity here plays a major role.

here is the tech stuff from Diggers. They list, among others, the W&G remover and Acetone under their "solvents" banner

http://www.recochem.com.au/files/dow...tone_Sep11.pdf

http://www.recochem.com.au/files/dow...over_Sep11.pdf

and here is their enamel thinners, which has its same main ingredient as the W&G.....isnt thinners for thining out paint AND clean up/removal....

http://www.recochem.com.au/files/dow...ners_Sep11.pdf