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Thread: 300 TDI head gasket holes and other ???

  1. #11
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    Ok so heads off and timing case cover removed.

    Head looks ok


    20130406_145456.jpg



    There is a bit of corrosion here I assume this is ok?

    20130406_145507.jpg




    Bores look good. I love the star patten on top of pistions
    20130406_145623.jpg




    I cracked open the timing case, Lots of black powder of death!!!!
    20130406_160807.jpg



    Think i'm lucky to decide to replace belt now!!!
    20130406_160825.jpg

  2. #12
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    this is the lung cancer that is getting choped out. Should be able to breathe a bit better now
    20130406_150011.jpg

  3. #13
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    Sparks, before you go to clean up the deck of the block remove the block coolant drain, Passenger side half way down block just behind dip stick tube.

    Will lower the coolant level in the water galleries so you dont splash coolant everywhere

    What do the bores cross hatch look like, that number three seems pretty shiney but it could just be camera flash???

    And in my opinion your going to want to tidy that head up, even though the area of corrosion is not large, it will prevent a good seal to the new HG unless you get it back to clean aluminium.

    Good catch on the air intake elbow - not too much left in that one.

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  4. #14
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    a few points to considor:

    there is a difference in quality between genuine LR, OEM and aftermarket parts, with genuine LR usually being the best (not talking axle upgrades shocks etc, just engine parts and such)

    Depending how far you go with surface prep of block and head may determine whether you want to use a composite type gasket or the MLS metal type.

    Good time to replace thermostat and check all coolant hoses. Also while you have good access, check your power steering hoses and fittings.

    Definitely get raidiator rodded and checked.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    Sparks, before you go to clean up the deck of the block remove the block coolant drain, Passenger side half way down block just behind dip stick tube.

    Will lower the coolant level in the water galleries so you dont splash coolant everywhere

    What do the bores cross hatch look like, that number three seems pretty shiney but it could just be camera flash???

    And in my opinion your going to want to tidy that head up, even though the area of corrosion is not large, it will prevent a good seal to the new HG unless you get it back to clean aluminium.

    Good catch on the air intake elbow - not too much left in that one.

    S

    It's not as shiney as the photo makes out. I can still see the hone marks in the bore.

    By tidy the head up do you mean a shave or just a hand clean up?

  6. #16
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    " I can still see the hone marks in the bore."

    Good news

    Soooooo now you have her in parts - is there value in dropping the sump and checking the big ends for wear. I did this on a mates '98 before her did a CNS-Kimbooly-CNS trip a few years ago - and of course we just bolted her back together, at 220k the bearings wear fine.
    But with a rattle gun its less than 30 minutes to get to those big end cap slip bearings that can cause grief?

    With that head I would give it a good clean and a light scrape - and see what you have.
    Not sure what facilities you have available but a 5 to 10 thou skim would most likely be an easy option to end up in a clean surface with no need to play with valve stand down etc before bolting her back down? I have skimmed 10 thou previously without touching the valve stand down???

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  7. #17
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    my 98 300tdi had the bearings fail at 230k . Serviced every 10k since day 1.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    " I can still see the hone marks in the bore."

    Good news

    Soooooo now you have her in parts - is there value in dropping the sump and checking the big ends for wear. I did this on a mates '98 before her did a CNS-Kimbooly-CNS trip a few years ago - and of course we just bolted her back together, at 220k the bearings wear fine.
    But with a rattle gun its less than 30 minutes to get to those big end cap slip bearings that can cause grief?

    With that head I would give it a good clean and a light scrape - and see what you have.
    Not sure what facilities you have available but a 5 to 10 thou skim would most likely be an easy option to end up in a clean surface with no need to play with valve stand down etc before bolting her back down? I have skimmed 10 thou previously without touching the valve stand down???

    S
    Nothing here to get a Skim done in time. Time is the big issue as i left it last minuite.

    I need it back together and going for 1st of may.

  9. #19
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    I would also be looking closely at your brake vaccuum pump as well, mine rattled the end plate loose on the Tanami Hwy .. which had about the same sized corrugations as the GRR... My 300 Tdi was at around the same Km's as your engine.. Took a while to find where the oil was splashing from.

    Have a great trip.. would love to be back up there..

    Cheers,
    Chookie

    '98 300tdi Disco.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chookie View Post
    I would also be looking closely at your brake vaccuum pump as well, mine rattled the end plate loose on the Tanami Hwy .. which had about the same sized corrugations as the GRR... My 300 Tdi was at around the same Km's as your engine.. Took a while to find where the oil was splashing from.

    Have a great trip.. would love to be back up there..

    Cheers,
    Chookie

    '98 300tdi Disco.
    Yep lift pump and vaccuum pump changed yesterday. used 2 gaskets on the vaccumm pump as this is hard to seal

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