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Thread: LT230 removal

  1. 12th May 2013, 02:38 PM #1
    Ralph1Malph's Avatar
    Ralph1Malph
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    LT230 removal

    Hi all,
    About to remove the transfer case out of my D2 TD5.
    Whilst the task looks pretty easy (according to RAVE) are there any tricks I should look out for?

    Be interesting to see what the damage is once I get it out. All the oil fell out a few weeks ago and not knowing, we did about 500km on an empty box!

    Can they successfully be rebuilt or is a replacement the generally accepted remedy?

    I reckon coz of the whine it is making, the bearings will be shot. I guess it depends on whether the case and gears are damaged.

    Cheers
    Ralph
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  2. 12th May 2013, 02:49 PM #2
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    OffTrack
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    There is a slightly updated procedure for the TC removal in a TB published in 2007 attached to a post in this thread discussing LT230 removal on the D2...

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ts-please.html
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  3. 12th May 2013, 03:22 PM #3
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    they can be rebuilt, watch the orientation of everything and the dangle on it when you pull the bolts.

    be wary of the stupid hidden bolt on a stud thats above the gearbox side of the idler gear shaft. (and top left of the tcase as you look at it from behind)

    Its a 3 man job to lift it down and up again if you dont have the custom plate for lifting just the Tcase. (2 if your game enough but watch the seal)

    Replace the output seals on the auto/gearbox while you/re up there.

    Drop the heat shield off of the exhaust first, some people drop the exhaust for access if you dont have a good selection of tools.

    3/8th drive stuff is the go
    Dave

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  4. 12th May 2013, 03:35 PM #4
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    Also take note of which bolt came out of which hole as they are different lengths. I had two in the wrong place, only 5mm difference but it locked the box up completely.

    Cheers, Jurgens.
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  5. 12th May 2013, 05:15 PM #5
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    I suppose the guide studs work for the D2 too, cut the heads off two 200mm long 10mm bolts, install them in lieu of any two bolts and use them to guide the box on and off. Saves the seals.
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  6. 12th May 2013, 05:29 PM #6
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    Apparently the lifting plate dimensions are in the D1 and Defender versions of RAVE... This was posted to Landroverforums.com

    http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/s...ck_adaptor.jpg
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  7. 13th May 2013, 05:58 PM #7
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    If the box is knackered and you cannot find a replacement you can get a replacement outright from Ashcrofts in the UK for £875 post to airport £200Can work out cheaper than paying labour to fix yours.....I found out the hard way!
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  8. 13th May 2013, 08:10 PM #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddy View Post
    If the box is knackered and you cannot find a replacement you can get a replacement outright from Ashcrofts in the UK for £875 post to airport £200Can work out cheaper than paying labour to fix yours.....I found out the hard way!
    I'll probably go straight for a replacement. I believe I can source a low km replacement for around $650 - $700 locally. I am not sure I could have it rebuilt for that. I am open to suggestions though

    Cheers
    Ralph
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  9. 18th May 2013, 03:41 PM #9
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    Update:
    TCase out and dismantled (thanks to fellow rover driver who helped).
    Gears have obviously been hot as had the entire box. Worst damage is to the bearings - not too many km left I reckon before they disintegrated. The gears don't look that bad after cleaning, no obvious chips, cracks or missing teeth.
    So, I am going to take a punt and throw an ashcroft rebuild kit into it and see what happens.

    Ralph
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  10. 10th June 2013, 01:17 PM #10
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    Tcase is now assembled and back in the car!
    Thanks to a fellow landy owner who did most of the rebuild and a few of my apprentices and TA's, the install has been a success.
    The box still has a slight whine but it is greatly subdued and I can certainly live with it. This is to be expected I guess as the gears are not perfect. There was some slight crazing of the hard face on a few teeth but well worth taking the risk not to replace them.
    Took the opportunity whilst the box was out to replace the rear output seal on the trans, not weeping but did it anyways. Also had an apprentice 'fashion' a cable operated lever for the CDL. Works great, just gotta figure where to put the 'handle' end. Currently I have it secured in the engine bay.
    Gave the Tbox a good work out at Jenowen Hills 4WD Park this long weekend and it came up trumps.
    All in all, I am one happy camper.

    Cheers
    Ralph
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